Monte Moro : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

In the northern side of Monte Rosa group the main watershed ridge turns to the East dividing the Valle Anzasca (S - Italy) from the Sass valley (N - Switzerland).

The Easternmost part of this ridge hosts the mountain that gives the name to the small subgroup : Monte Moro

This is a small summit, growing up about 100m from the 2 passes that delimit it : the Bocchetta di Galkerne (W side - 2904m) and the Passo di Monte Moro (E side - 2868m) ... and is the NE end of the Monte Rosa group

Though made of good rock (a kind of granite : Gneiss occhiadino) its ridges and slopes are covered with big debris that make it easy to be climbed so that none can consider the climbing of this mountain something more than the access to a fine "belvedere"

Getting There

the access to this mountain can be done both from Italy and Switzerland

Italy
From the highway of Simplon Pass exit Piedimulera
Follow for Macugnaga

Switzerland
From the highway of Wallis exit Saas
Follow for Saas Almagell and up to Mattmark dam

Route

from Map+ by TIDAC ch

Very short and easy the two routes normally used to climb and to descend making an amusing and not tiring walkup.

the ESE ridge, ascending from the Passo di Monte Moro - it takes half an hour and requires only a little little attention if iced,
easy and comfortable in spring when in good settled snow
To get the Passo del Monte Moro,

Macugnaga - from the upper station of the cable car you have to walk up toward the small lake (Lago Smeraldo = Emerald lake), board it on the right side pointing straight to the lower depression of the ridge (left of the Madonna statue)

Mattmark dam - Hotel Mattmark up to Distel and along the old muletrack used by the smugglers - (a stair of stones makes easier the last part) (2 hours)

the W ridge, ascending from the Bocchetta di Galkerne - it takes few minutes (15-20') and a walkup on debris (better use it to come down)
no problems when in snow
To get the Bocchetta di Galkerne

Macugnaga from the upper station of the cable car you have to walk up toward the small lake, before getting it a path to the left, under the rocks and partially digged into the rock of the S wall.

Mattmark dam ditto but at Talliboden you have to follow a wide ledge of debris and snow between two rocky bands toward the Seewjinegletscher and along it to the saddle (2 hours)

Accomodation

No need if you only want to climb the Monte Moro

The Rifugio Oberto (some 30 meters below the cablecar station) can be useful if you're going to make the "traversata dei Camosci" (easy alpinistic route to access the Rifugio Sella . under the Cima di Iazzi)

Links

Joderhorn 3036m & Monte Moro 2985m - a short report from Cyrill (rip)

Monterosa Star - Macugnaga Monte Moro Ski-area

Images