InformationThe Piramide Vincent is the most southern 4000m peak of the Monte Rosa massif. It is the "home summit" of the Rif. Gnifetti.
The first climber was Johann Nikolaus Vincent together with 3 other people on 5th August 1819. The NE-ridge was climbed for the first time in 1851 by the brothers Schlagintweit with the guide Peter Beck. It is interesting especially for ski-mountaineers although they normally climb the shorter NW-flank.
The Vincent Pyramide is a very easy snow climbing peak with diffrent routes: the SW-flank - S-ridge - S-flank in summer and the shorter NW-flank in winter for skimountaineers. Not discutable are the dangerous routes (V) through the crumbling and objectively dangerous 500 m high S-face. But there are 3 interesting mixed routes in the 350 m high SW-face (all III+).
For the Routes compare the section Routes-Overview below.
Routes1. SW-flank/-ridge :
Several routes on shoulders, spurs and couloirs
III ande IV, 4-6 hours from the Gnifetti hut
2. ESE-ridge from the Punta Giordani:
This Punta is really not a mountain, but a shoulder of the Vincent ridge. 1.5 hours walk to the Punta from Indren, then another 2 hours climb to the Piramide Vincent. PD+
3. NW-flank (normal route):
2.5 h from Gnifetti. Ski route. If you are well acclimatized, it is possible to do it in one day from Alagna. Easy.
4. NE-flank (N-spur):
Start from the Alagna side (Valsesia hut 3312 m). Rock climb, IV, 6 hours from the hut
Getting There1. To the Vincent Pyramide:
- From the Rif. Gnifetti or Rif. Città di Mantova.
2. To the Rif. Gnifetti (3611 m) and Rif. Città die Mantova (3498 m):
- Get to the hut from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna), in 1,5 h via Rif. Città di Mantova (350 hm), 45 min. from Rif. Mantova, 7 h from Alagna (2420hm). In the lower part, it is a marked way (no. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, You traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the Gnifettihut.
- Get to Punta Indren on the marked hiking way no. 5 from Alagna via Dosso (1357m). You go to the Alpe Oltu (1847m, cable car station, 1,5 h) and furth in the Valle d'Olen up. You go along the Sasso del Diavolo and reach almost Colle d'Olen, wher you turn right to the Vigevano-hut (3 h). You go further along Passo Salati (2936m) to the ridge-crest and traverse Stolemberg. Over the side of the Indrenglacier, you reach the station (1 1/4 h, totally 6 h).
- Reach the Gnifetti hut also via Gressoney by taking the cable car to Alpe Gabiet (1270 ), then change to the upper lift that takes you the Passo dei Salati (2936 m). A marked path (fixed ropes) takes you around Stolemberg to Punta Indren.
- You reach Alagna by car on the road no. E62 from Brig via Simplonpass. You turn off at Ornavasso (near the Lago Maggiore) and drive to Omegna. Take the road along the western shore of the Lago d' Orta over the Colma pass to Varallo and continue to Alagna..
- From Italy head for Varallo via Novara.
When to climb
Snow condition in Alagna and Indren
AccommodationRifugio Gnifetti (3647 m):
The Rif. Gnifetti is situated on a rockspur between the Lysglacier and the Garsteletglacier.
- 280 beds
- winter room with 15 beds (blankets and kitchenware)
- serviced from middle april till middle september
- phone: ++390/16378015
- internet: Rif. Gnifetti
Rif. Città di Mantova (3498 m): or this link
80 beds (15 in winter)
150 m below Gnifetti
Maps and GuideIstituto Geografico Centrale, Torino:
1:50000 no. 10 Monte Rosa, Alagna e Macugnago
1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel (only valuable if access from north)
1:50000 no. 294 Gressoney (shows all the Italian part)
Guide in French or German:
Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, Vol. 4
See the Swisstopo Map with many interesting features. Upload is in a seperate window.
(to order at amazon.com)
- Another description for Vincent Pyramide
Another description (only in italian) for Vincent Pyramide. 33 shots (4 are panoramic sized). Enjoy!
- 360° view from Piramide Vincent
Free preview and download of 360° animated post-card, taken from Piramide Vincent summit. Enjoy!
- Piramide Vincent at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps
- Ludwigshöhe, Parrotspitze, etc
Climbing in the Southern Monte Rosa Group
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