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Piramide Vincent

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Piramide Vincent

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Valsesia/Gressoney, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.90705°N / 7.86189°E

Object Title: Piramide Vincent

County: Valle d'Aosta, Piemonte

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer

Elevation: 13829 ft / 4215 m

 

Page By: alpinbeta

Created/Edited: Oct 27, 2001 / Jun 7, 2017

Object ID: 150642

Hits: 32192 

Page Score: 95.01%  - 50 Votes 

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Overview

Piramide Vincent 4215 m


Piramide Vincent 4215 is a mountain belonging to Monte Rosa Group, Pennine Alps and located between Punta Giordani and Colle Vincent. It's the Southernmost 4000m peak of the massif and the "home summit" of the Rif. Gnifetti and Rif. Mantova.
It's entirely located in Italian territory, shared by the counties of Valle d'Aosta and Piemonte and it's the last peak on the majestic and long ridge starting from Punta Nordend and winding from North to South with a terrific sequence of 4000s: Dufour, Zumstein, Gnifetti, Parrot, Ludwigshöhe, Corno Nero are the other peaks that make up this extraordinary icy and rocky wall.
Together with Western Breithorn, Piramide Vincent is considered as one of the easiest 4000s of the Alps, to be climbed without much difficulty from the normal route described below. Check here the complete list of the 82 alpine Fourthousanders and the 46 minor summits: Club4000. As its name tells it's a true pyramid with four ridges giving rise to as many sides.

Piramide Vincent seen from Punta Giordani
Piramide Vincent seen from Punta Giordani

Vincent from south ( Alpe...
Piramide Vincent from South



It's a very nice summit, often climbed in one day starting from the valley floor, facilitated by the car-lift both from the Valle d'Aosta and Piedmont sides. It is therefore visited by many mountaineers as a not too demanding destination or as training and acclimatization in view of more demanding ascent. However, this solution could cause acclimatization problems and it is rather advisable to stay overnight in Mantova or Gnifetti huts. The summit panorama is quite remarkable.
There are different routes: the SW-flank - S-ridge - S-flank in summer and the shorter NW-flank, also for skimountaineers. Not discutable are the dangerous routes (V) through the crumbling and objectively dangerous 500 m high S-face. But there are 3 interesting mixed routes in the 350 m high SW-face (all III+).

Piramide Vincent and Capanna Gnifetti annotated viewPiramide Vincent and Capanna Gnifetti

History

The first summiter was Johann Nikolaus Vincent from Gressoney, whose name was given to the mountain, along the South-East route, with three companions on 5th August 1819. The NE-ridge was climbed for the first time in 1851 by the brothers Schlagintweit with the guide Peter Beck. It is interesting especially for ski-mountaineers although they normally climb the shorter NW-flank.

Getting There

From Italy - Two different approachs ways are possible depending if coming from the Valle di Gressoney (Aosta) or from Val Sesia (Piemonte).

Access via the Valle di Gressoney (Aosta Valley) - From the A5 Torino – Aosta Highway, exit Pont St. Martin and take the Valle di Gressoney, getting to Gressoney St. Jean, Gressoney La Trinité and Staffal.
From Staffal take the Cable car to Alpe Gabiet – Passo dei Salati - Indren

Access via the Val Sesia (Piemonte) - From the A26 Highway exit to Romagnano Sesia and take the road to Varallo Sesia. Here continue following all the Val Sesia road to Alagna Valsesia.
From Alagna Valsesia take the Cable car to Pianalunga - Passo dei Salati – Indren

From Switzerland - You reach Alagna by car on the road no. E62 from Brig via Simplonpass. Turn off at Ornavasso (near the Lago Maggiore) and drive to Omegna. Take the road along the western shore of the Lago d'Orta over the Colma pass to Varallo and continue to Alagna. You can reach Aosta through the Great St.Bernard Tunnel or the Great St.Bernard Col, then follow the road running in Val Gressoney to Staffal

1. To the Piramide Vincent
  • From the Rif. Gnifetti or Rif. Città di Mantova.


2. To the Rif. Gnifetti 3611 m or Rif. Città di Mantova 3498 m:
  • Get to the Rif. Gnifetti from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna or Gressoney) in 1,5 h via the Rif. Città di Mantova, 1 h to Rif. Città di Mantova. In the lower part, it is a marked path (no. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the Gnifetti hut.

    Alternatively by walk (no cable car) 7 h from Alagna.


  • Get to Punta Indren on the marked hiking way no. 5 from Alagna via Dosso (1357m). You go to the Alpe Oltu (1847m, cable car station, 1,5 h) and furth in the Valle d'Olen up. You go along the Sasso del Diavolo and reach almost Colle d'Olen, wher you turn right to the Vigevano-hut (3 h). You go further along Passo Salati (2936m) to the ridge-crest and traverse Stolemberg. Over the side of the Indrenglacier, you reach the station (1 1/4 h, totally 6 h).
  • Route: North-West side (Normal route)

    Piramide Vincent North-West side (Normal route)

    Difficulty: F (Alpine scale)
    Difference in level: 600 m from Capanna Gnifetti - 750 m from Rifugio Mantova

    An interesting route, following at first a great glacier – the Lys Glacier - then the gentle NW slopes of the peak. The ascent is easy, but involving a complete glacier's equipment. Lys Glacier has several crevasses - often hidden in the early summer - so it is necessary to cross it proceeding enroped.

    Normal approach to Piramide...
    The itinerary along the Lys glacier

    Piramide Vincent NW side
    On the Normal route looking to the summit



    From the shelters – Rifugio Mantova or Capanna Gnifetti – gain the starting point of the Lys Glacier, which begins nearby Capanna Gnifetti. Enter the glacier and follow it at first diagonally to the left (toward North-East) along a steep ramp, then toward North rising on moderate ice-slopes, never too away from the steep slopes of Vincent. In some sections the route presents a few passages between wide crevasses. Continue always along the track, usually present in summer, heading to the Lys Col. After passing a series of irregular slopes, the itinerary gets the snowy basin below the Balmenhorn at about 4000 m. and almost under the rock of Balmenhorn it leaves on the left the main track directed towards the Lys Col and bends sharply to the right along a moderate slope in the direction of Colle Vincent. Shortly before reaching it, it turns to right again to the right and climb the wide NW snow slope of Vincent, not difficult and normally well traced. Only in the final meters the slope slightly increases, giving access to the top.

    Descent: along the same itinerary

    Route: SSW ridge

     
    Piramide Vincent
    Piramide Vincent


    SSW ridge report

    Difficulty: PD (Alpine scale)
    Difference in level: 600 m from Capanna Gnifetti - 750 m from Rifugio Mantova
    Departure location: new cableway Indren (Alagna Valsesia, VC)
    Support points: Rifugi Mantova and Gnifetti

    Ascension on mixed, first climb C. Perazzi and P. Maquignaz, 22/07/1882

    From the Mantova or Gnifetti huts crosses the glacier of Garstelet, getting the wide ridge of shrubs and rocks. Follow it up to the top, alternating snow slopes and easy climbing on steps and rocks. The difficulties are always contained (max. Grade II UIAA) and the most demanding traits are avoidable on the SE side near the ridge. Various escape routes are possible on both the Garstelet and Bors slopes, and the best is approximately 3900 m when the ridge extends into a wide snowy saddle. Hence, with a large semicircle on the southeast Vincent slope, it is possible to easily reach the top of Punta Giordani.

    Route: ESE ridge

    Piramide Vincent ESE ridge
    Difficulty: PD (Alpine scale)
    Difference in level: 950 m from Indren

    Very nice and spectacular itinerary, starting from Indren cableway station, involving the ascent to Punta Giordani, then continuing on the ridge - sometimes airy - of Piramide Vincent

    Pala del Bo e Pala del Belia annotatedCresta del Soldato - The red circle in the middle indicate the Punta Indren cable car upper station - ph. Andrea


    Once you reach the summity of Punta Giordani m 4046, via the Normal Route or the Cresta del Soldato, follow the watershed ridge paying attention to the corniches on the North side and bypassing to the left a rocky islet protruding above a saddle, follow the ESE ridge of the Pyramid Vincent, which after a snowy and flat stretch rises with rocky outcrops to get the summit.

    Descent: on the Normal route

    Other routes

    SW-flank/-ridge :
    Several routes on shoulders, spurs and couloirs
    III ande IV, 4-6 hours from the Gnifetti hut

    NE-flank (N-spur):
    Start from the Alagna side (Valsesia hut 3312 m). Rock climb, IV, 6 hours from the hut

    When to climb

    Best months are June, July, August and September.
    Ski-mountaineering: from the end of March to the end of May

    Huts

     
    Rifugio Mantova
    Lyskamm seen from Rif. Mantova


    - Rifugio Città di Mantova m. 3470

    Situation: Garstelet Glacier
    Open: from June to September
    Size: 85 persons + 15 in the winter-shelter
    Guardian: Guide di Gressoney
    Hut's phone : 0039 0163 78150 / 347 0802910
    Email: info@rifugiomantova.it


    - Capanna Gnifetti m. 3611

    Situation: rockspur between the Lysglacier and the Garsteletglacier
    Open: spring from middle March to middle May - summer from middle June to middle September
    Size: 176 persons + 4 in the winter-shelter
    Hut's phone : 0163 78150 / 347 0802910
    Email: info@rifugimonterosa.it


    Panorama toward M. Bianco; Capanna Gnifetti on the right Panorama toward M. Bianco; Capanna Gnifetti is on the right

    Bibliography

     
    Punta Giordani map
     

    Guidebooks

    “Monte Rosa” by Gino Buscaini - Guida dei Monti d'Italia C.A.I.-T.C.I.

    "Il grande libro dei 4000 - Vie normali e classiche" by Marco Romelli, Valentino Cividini - Idea Montagna Editore, 2015

    “Tutti i 4000 – L’aria sottile dell’alta quota” – Club 4000, CAI Torino – Vivalda Editori

    “4000 delle Alpi” by Richard Goedeke - Ed. Libris

    Guide in French or German:
    Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, Vol. 4

    Italian Maps

    "Breuil/Cervinia-Zermatt" Kompass map 1:50.000.

    "Cervino-Matterhorn e Monte Rosa" n. 5 - Istituto Geografico Centrale map 1:50.000

    "Monte Rosa, Alagna e Macugnaga" n. 10 Istituto Geografico Centrale, Torino
    1:50000

    Swiss Maps

    "Matterhorn-Mischabel" n. 5006 1:50000 (only valuable if access from north)

    "Gressoney" n. 294 1:50000 (shows all the Italian part)

    Literature

  • Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. 1994.
    (to order at amazon.com)
    ISBN 0898863783

  • Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998.
    ISBN 3-7633-7427-2

  • Michael Waeber, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1999.
    ISBN 3-7633-2416-X

  • Michel Vaucher, Walliser Alpen. Die 100 schönsten Touren. 2nd ed. Munich 1990.
    ISBN 3-7654-2124-3
  • External Links

    Meteo Forecast

    Meteo Valle d'Aosta

    Meteo Piemonte

    Additions and Corrections

    [ Post an Addition or Correction ]
    Viewing: 1-1 of 1    
    HegyibaromPiramide Vincent normal route (and Lyskamm Orientale)

    Hegyibarom

    Hasn't voted

    Video from the Piramide Vincent standard route (and Lyskamm Orientale):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV0Ryc0_iDw
    Posted Oct 13, 2016 8:55 am

    Viewing: 1-1 of 1    

    Images