Brana

Mountain/Rock

Brana

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Kamnik Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.35546°N / 14.58796°E

Elevation: 7391 ft / 2253 m

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: May 3, 2005 / Feb 19, 2006

Object ID: 154017

Hits: 3275

Page Score: 90.83% - 32 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Geographical structure: Eastern Alps > Kamnik Alps group > Central group of Kamnik Alps.

Brana is the mountain located on the west side of the pass Kamnisko sedlo (1864m). We can class Brana in the low mountains with altitude above 2000 meters in Kamnik Alps group but with its powerful picture is amazing and doesn�t look so lower. Above the pass Kamnisko sedlo it has only 400 meters high face and slopes. From there is summit approachable over not very hard marked route.

Brana has bad reputation; on its slopes many climbers have met an accident. Brana is on third place in Slovenia in accidental death. The reason of accidents is funnel-shaped north slope above north face where goes normal approach and that slope is often reason of the accident. In snowless season it is not hard crossing the slope but in snow season you can be faced with difficulties. For many accidents was the reason bad equipment or ignorance of the terrain. For many accidents was the main reason also an avalanche.

On the south side Brana is rising steeply above the valley of Kamniska Bistrica with the steep slopes full of dwarf pine and grass. This slope becomes less steep when comes on the peak called Kaptan (1943m). On the notch below this peak come two couloirs. One from the west, Bobnarjev plaz and from the east, Bosova grapa. Both are very popular for climbing in snow. From this peak to the top of Brana are only the long grassy slopes and a basin called V Bleku. On the west side Brana has steep west face that falls down in big ravine Kotliski graben that is very interesting goal in Winter. The ravine Kotliski graben comes on the notch Kotlici that is on the NW side of Brana. Here come two marked routes. One route comes from the west side from the summit Turska gora (2251m) and the second one comes from the east side from the pass Kamnisko sedlo over the north slopes of Brana. On the east side falls from Brana also steep east face in the valley below the pass Kamnisko sedlo.

The normal route on Brana goes from the pass Kamnisko sedlo, crosses the north slopes and then in upper part over the NW ridge to the top.

From climbing viewpoint is the most popular face in Brana east face. But here you won�t find very good rock and very hard climbing routes. Brana is specially popular in Winter conditions when you can enjoy in many couloirs but take care of avalanches!

Getting There

The map of the Central part of Kamnik Alps. Brana is on the map unnamed peak above Kamniska Bistrica.

For a better overview check the page of Kamnik Alps GROUP.

For the south approach you must choose Kamniska Bistrica valley, which is accessible by personal car from Kamnik. This is the main approach and the easiest.

For the approach from north side you must come to Logarska dolina.

Maps:

Kamniske in Savinjske Alpe. Planinska zveza Slovenije, 1:50000

Grintovci. Planinska zveza Slovenije, 1:25000

Routes overview

Brana is approachable over the not very hard secured marked route from the Kamnisko sedlo. It is often climbed by climbers that cross the whole Kamnik Alps and they reach also Brana.

Marked routes:

Normal approach over the marked route from the pass Kamnisko sedlo

From the west side from Turska gora

Climbing routes:

South slopes, ridge and face over Kaptan UIAA II.

Butinarjeva grapa The couloir in east face that comes on the notch between Brana and Kaptan.

Bobnarjev plaz The couloir in SW face that comes on the notch between Brana and Kaptan.

Kotliski graben The ravine below the west face that comes on the notch Kotlici.

NE ridge - Sija Brane The NE ridge of Brana. UIAA I-III 200m.

Zgornji steber with Sija Brane The climbing route in east face that comes on the NE ridge of Brana and then over the NE ridge called Sija Brane comes to the top. UIAA -IV/II-III 160m + I-III 200m (Sija Brane)

There are also many climbing route in west and east face. If you are interested just say me and I will help you.

Red Tape

No limitations. But please take care of nature.

There is the beautiful waterfall at the end of the Logarska dolina (valley) called the Rinka waterfall.

Waterfall Rinka

When To Climb

For climbing on Brana in Summer time is the best time in not so hot Summer and Autumn days. But when you are reaching Brana in Spring time take care of snowfields on the nort side!

For climbing couloris the best time is when the avalanches have already fallen down.

Camping and huts

In valleys there are many tourist resorts.

You can find a lot of places for camping in valleys.

In nearness of Brana are huts and bivouacs Dom v Kamniski Bistrici(hut), Cojzova koca (hut), Frischaufov dom na Okreslju(hut), Kamniska koca na Kamniskem sedlu (hut) and Bivouac below Skuta on Mali podi.

Huts:

Dom v Kamniski Bistrici, 601m: The hut leads in nearness of Kamniska Bistrica spring. It is supplied by PD Ljubljana-Matica. It is open all year. There is always a lot of people because is very popular point. In the hut is 33 beds for sleeping.
Phone: 003861 832 57 16

Cojzova koca na Kokrskem sedlu, 1793m: The hut is supplied by PD Kamnik. It leads above Kalski Greben, Grintovec and Kocna on the pass called Kokrsko sedlo. It has 145 beds for sleeping and winter room with 12 beds. It is open from June to October.
Phone: 0038650 635 549

Frischaufov dom na Okreslju, 1396m: The hut leads in glacier`s basin below north face of Rinke and Turska Gora. It has 78 beds and it is opened from May to the end of September.
Phone: 0038638389070

Kamniska koca na Kamniskem sedlu, 1864m The hut is located on the pass Kamnisko sedlo. It has 142 beds and it is opened in snowless season. It has also the Winter room with 20 beds.
Phone: 0038618391345,

Bivouac:

Bivouac below Skuta on Mali podi, 2070m: It leads on south brink of plateau Mali Podi. We look it when we come over unmarked route over Zmavcarje. It has 10 beds, blankets, bench and table.

Mountain Conditions

For weather see here .

Images



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