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Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu)
Mountain/Rock

Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu)

 
Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu)

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Asturias, Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 43.20280°N / 4.8267°W

Object Title: Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu)

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 8264 ft / 2519 m

 

Page By: TodoVertical

Created/Edited: Dec 5, 2002 / May 14, 2009

Object ID: 151378

Hits: 35047 

Page Score: 89.77%  - 30 Votes 

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Very Important

It is important to understand what Naranjo de Bulnes means to Spanish Mountaineers. It is our most precious jewel, and the most wanted summit. Every single Spanish mountaineer dreams on the possibility of looking from its summit. The beauty of this mountain is not only in what you look at, is has to do more with the magic of it. When you feel it you understand. It is very difficult to express in words how people feel about it. And all this does not means it has an easy way to reach its top, because it has not. Rock climbing technics and gear is necesary, even in the easiest route on the south face: "Directa Hermanos Martinez" ( 5.8, 155m). There are about 70 routes on the mountain, and only a few of them are relalatively easy; the rest are long, difficult and exposed. Nevertheless climbing "Naranjo de Bulnes" by any of its routes would be worthwhile and incredibly grateful. I hope you get to climb it !!


Morning light on Naranjo de Bulnes´ south (left) and east (right) faces.

Getting There

Naranjo de Bulnes is located in "Picos de Europa" National Park. It is a vast and wild mountain range in the northen province of Spain named "Asturias". The mountain can be approach from the:

  • North: from the "Asturiana" village of "Arenas de Cabrales" take the road going south to "Tielve" and then "Sotres" (1.045m), and walk or drive to "Collado de Pandebano" (1.212m). From "Collado de Pandebano" take the obvious well traced trail going SW up the hill and then follow it for 2 to 3 hours to reach "Vega de Uriellu " Hut (1.953m).
  • South: from the "Cantabrica" village of "Potes" take road to "Fuente Dé" and take cable-car to viewpoint (750m higher up). From cable-car station (1.834m) follow trail to "Horcados Rojos" col (2.344m) then follow trail going North taking special precautions descending from Horcados Rojos to reach "Vega de Uriellu " Hut (1.960m) in 2 to 3 hours.

IMPORTANT: Approaching "Vega the Urriellu" Hut is easy when in knowledge of the area and the trail. Because of the exposure of this mountain range to the northen winds that always bring really bad weather, it is a must to carry map and compass when going for the first time.

The most popular route to approach the Hut is from the north.

Cleanning up "Pilar del Cantabrico" second pitch.
Naranjo de Bulnes West Face.
July 2003
Photo: Dani Oltra
Climber: Jonás Cruces

West Face

In the spanish climbing history this is ´The Face´. Everyone of the strongest and outstanding spanish climbers has gone up this face. Some creating new lines and others repeating the already existing ones. All routes up this face are difficult, and let me add too that most of the routes up the face are extremely difficult. Hard aid and runout difficult free climbing is the common language in most of the routes.

Height: 500 m.

Access: It is the face right above the the Hut, getting to the face will take us 20 min from the Hut.

Descent: It is always using the rappel stations on the south side. Although most of the routes can not be rappeled down, if necesary, you could rappel down the belay stations of the Murciana Route.

West Face most popular routes:

  • - LEIVA, (500m, 6b, A1 [7a])
  • - SAGITARIO, (200m, 6b)
  • - RABADA-NAVARRO, (750m, 6a, A2 [6c+])
  • MORE INFO OF THE ROUTE (Sorry, only in Spanish)
  • - DIRECTISIMA, (500m, 6a, A2 [7b])
  • - MURCIANA 78, (500m, 6a, A2 [7c+])
  • - MEDITERRANEO, (500m, 6b, A3)
  • - PILAR DEL CANTABRICO, (500m, 6a, A2+ [8a+])

East Face

The East Face looks like a huge slab. First time you stare at it does not look as large as it is until you realize those tiny little dots half way up the wall are climbers in the middle of the face. This face is also reserved for the experienced climbers only. Although the technical difficulty is not high in most of the routes good knoledge of placing rockclimbling protection, route finding skills and being used to runout freeclimbing is essential. CEPEDA route was the first line up this face, and most of the routes join this one to finish up the face, it was first climbed in september 1955 by: M Jesús Aldecoa, Jaime Cepeda y Pedro Udaondo.

Height: 350 m.

Access: To get to the foot of the face we would have to go up the ¨Canal de la Celada´ (Celada Gully). Starting from Hut follow trail going eastwards first down and then up through loose rock and some sections of easy scramble will leave us in approximately one hour to the foot of the face.

Descent: Two options. Or either use the rappel stations starting on the fifth belay of the Cepeda Route or either go through the big hole located in the ninth belay of the Cepeda Route and traverse SW to reach rappel stations of the South Face.

East Face most popular routes:

  • - CEPEDA, (350m, V+)
  • - PAJARO LOCO, (200m, 6b)
  • - MARTÍNEZ-SOMOANO, (250m, V+)
  • - AMISTAD CON EL DIABLO, (250m, V+)
  • - CAINEJO, (260m, 6a+, A1)


PHOTOS OF THE CEPEDA ROUTE (350m, 6a)
Climbed by Jon Cruces (6 years old) together with Jonás Cruces % Varis (both are Mountain Guides)




Cepeda Route on the East face - www.todoescalada.net



Start of the route with Varis



Varis climbing first pitches



Climbing first pitches



First pitches from below



Climbing first pitches



Jon Cruces (6) climbing together with dad - Photo: Varis



Jon Cruces (6) climbing together with dad - Photo: Varis




Jon Cruces (6) climbing together with dad - Photo: Varis



Jon Cruces (6) going through the whole at the end of the route - Photo: Varis



Jonás Cruces going through the whole at the end of the route - Photo: Varis



Jon Cruces & Varis on the last belay



On the summit ridge



On the summit


North Face

The North Face is the most dramatic of all faces of this mountain. Although climbing the South Face is easier and less exposed, the first ascent of the mountain was via the north face. We have to go back to August the fifth of 1904, Climbers: Pedro Pidal and Gregorio Pérez ´El Cainejo´. After a rigourus study of the mountain they thought the other tree faces to be unclimbable. They choose the north face and the very characteristic north face chimney; there, was the key to the summit. Today, the chimney, is climbed in three exposed and difficult pitches. In an epic climb these two experienced mountaineers succeeded in their way to the summit and descended the same way. Climbing this face is more of a difficult alpine ascent through bad rock than a proper rock climbing one, and has very little in common with the other three faces.

Height: Varies, 700-450 m.

Access: The SCHULZE and PIDAL-CAINEJO routes start at the very right of the East face, and basically go rightwards to meet northeast spurr and to follow north face chimney. See access to East Face. For the RÉGIL route, starting from Hut follow trail going down and eastwards to meet northeast spurr. 20 min.

Descent: Via the South Face.

North Face most popular routes:

  • - RÉGIL, (700m, V)
  • - PIDAL-CAINEJO, (450m, V)
  • - SCHULZE, (500m, V)

South Face

A In order to reach the base of the route a long hour (may be an hour and a half) is necessary from Urriellu Hut. To do it in the same day from Sotres or Pandébano is another possibility if we do not want to do night in the Urriellu Hut, I believe this last option being much more exhausting (non advisable). The "Canal de la Celada" is better hiked up by its left side. By the right side a exists a possibility, something more direct although more uncomfortable due to the great amount of loose stones by the narrow channel (faster option to get down, but also a greater risk of stones falling). To reach the base of the route to the height of a staggered rocky slope of white color, more or less by half of the South face and immediately under a comfortable dark hole in the face that constitutes the first belay about 15 meters and something up-right. It is highly suggested to be with the helmet already on by this time, since a lot of stones usually fall.


When to Climb

Usually climbing is possible since late spring till early auttum. Altough strong parties will achieve winter ascents.


Equipment-Gear

Rock climbing technics and gear is necesary, even in the easiest route on the south face: "Directa Hermanos Martinez" ( 5.8, 155m). There are about 70 routes on the mountain, and only a few of them are relalatively easy; the rest are long, difficult and exposed. Standard climbing rack recomended (helmet, two ropes, nuts and friends). Nevertheless climbing "Naranjo de Bulnes" by any of its routes would be worthwhile and incredibly grateful. I hope you get to climb it !!


Red Tape and Wildlife

Nothing required in terms of permits. Naranjo de Bulnes is located within the National Park boundarys, therefore, stricted regulations aply relating wildlife.


Books

  • - (Magazine) Desnivel #132, Sept. 1997
  • - "Verticualidad" Author- Rainier Munsch y Didier Sorbé. Publ.: Publi Action, 1992.
  • - "Naranjo de Bulnes" Un siglo de escaladas Author: Isidoro Rodríguez Cubillas. Publ.: Desnivel Año 2000.
  • - "Cordillera Cantábrica. Escaladas Selectas de los Picos de Europa al Valle de Teverga" Author- Miguel Ángel Adrados, Oviedo 1996, ISBN- 84-605-5318-3

Weather Forecast

Click Here: For a 7 days weather forecast in the "Cangas de Onis" area !!


Information


All info gathered by:
Jonás Cruces
Mountain Guide & Rock + Ice Climbing Instructor

This is his website: www.todovertical.com

External Links

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-13 of 13    
TodoVerticalUntitled Comment

TodoVertical

Hasn't voted

Approaching Naranjo de Bulnes using the terrible train, has never been an option for several reasons.





1.- It is the longest and the hardest one, and considering that it is pretty common to carry enough gear (a lot of weight) to be climbing Naranjo de Bulnes, climbers would always be looking at the shortest and easiest way.


2.- If what you want is to reach the village of Bulnes, you could either take the terrible train or hike for 1-2 Hours from puente Poncebos.


3.-The terrible train was built against all common senses and the opinion of mayor associations involved in the protection of nature and environment.


4.- The terrible train is basically used by tourist, the same ones that would use the Aiguille du Midi one in Chamonix (France) and are not necesarily mountainners.


5.-The terrible train is the first part of a huge project that expects to be carrying a cable car from Bulnes to Naranjo the Bulnes base one day.





For all this reasons the people that believes that Naranjo de Bulnes is a mountain that should be kept the way it is now, we all are against the use of the terrible train.





Please do not use the train !!!





If you want to see the Naranjo de Bulnes hike to the feet of the mountain it will be worthwhile.





Preserve the mountains the way they are !!!!





Signed,





Jonás Cruces
Posted Oct 15, 2004 1:37 pm
Rafa BartolomeUntitled Comment

Rafa Bartolome

Voted 10/10

O.K. estoy de acuerdo totalmente con lo que dices así que creo que sería interesante que pusieses este comentario de alguna forma aunque sea más resumido en la página para que sepa la gente lo que pasa con este engendro comercial para turistas que es el funicular de Bulnes ya que mucha gente suele preguntar por él al llegar a la zona y quiere información (a mi me pasa y supongo que a tí también). Es como el proyecto de hacer un tunel bajo el Vignemale, se me abren las carnes sólo de pensarlo.
Posted Oct 15, 2004 2:34 pm
TodoVerticalUntitled Comment

TodoVertical

Hasn't voted

Gracias Rafa !! No tengo casi tiempo que dedicarle a SummitPost. Bastante tengo con mantener mi propia web, por cierto, te reitero el ofrecimiento de insertar reseñas (por supuesto que te pondría los créditos) y te ofrezco la posibilidad de tener rafa@todovertical.com redireccionado a tu correo. Veo que te gusta mucho lo de las reseñas y si lo quieres hacer en castellano pues ahí está ...





Si tienes tiempo y te apetece hacer lo mismo con el resto de montañas que tengo bienvendio.





Gracias y un abrazo,





Jonás
Posted Oct 12, 2005 2:10 pm
Rafa BartolomeUntitled Comment

Rafa Bartolome

Voted 10/10

-Canal de Camburero from the village of Bulnes (642m). To reach Bulnes from Puente Poncebos (near the village of Sotres) you can take the "funicular de Bulnes" (little train underground). From Bulnes follow the evident channel to the mountain hut. 4-5h.





Horary:


-Funicular de Bulnes: summer and holidays from 10 to 20h. Rest of year: 10-12:30h and 14-18h. Each 30 minutes.


-Cable-car of Fuente Dé: from 9 to 18h. Each 15 minutes.
Posted Oct 14, 2004 4:02 pm
TodoVerticalUntitled Comment

TodoVertical

Hasn't voted

Approaching Naranjo de Bulnes using the terrible train, has never been an option for several reasons.





1.- It is the longest and the hardest one, and considering that it is pretty common to carry enough gear (a lot of weight) to be climbing Naranjo de Bulnes, climbers would always be looking at the shortest and easiest way.


2.- If what you want is to reach the village of Bulnes, you could either take the terrible train or hike for 1-2 Hours from puente Poncebos.


3.-The terrible train was built against all common senses and the opinion of mayor associations involved in the protection of nature and environment.


4.- The terrible train is basically used by tourist, the same ones that would use the Aiguille du Midi one in Chamonix (France) and are not necesarily mountainners.


5.-The terrible train is the first part of a huge project that expects to be carrying a cable car from Bulnes to Naranjo the Bulnes base one day.





For all this reasons the people that believes that Naranjo de Bulnes is a mountain that should be kept the way it is now, we all are against the use of the terrible train.





Please do not use the train !!!





If you want to see the Naranjo de Bulnes hike to the feet of the mountain it will be worthwhile.





Preserve the mountains the way they are !!!!





Signed,





Jonás Cruces
Posted Oct 15, 2004 1:37 pm
Rafa BartolomeUntitled Comment

Rafa Bartolome

Voted 10/10

O.K. estoy de acuerdo totalmente con lo que dices así que creo que sería interesante que pusieses este comentario de alguna forma aunque sea más resumido en la página para que sepa la gente lo que pasa con este engendro comercial para turistas que es el funicular de Bulnes ya que mucha gente suele preguntar por él al llegar a la zona y quiere información (a mi me pasa y supongo que a tí también). Es como el proyecto de hacer un tunel bajo el Vignemale, se me abren las carnes sólo de pensarlo.
Posted Oct 15, 2004 2:34 pm
Rafa BartolomeUntitled Comment

Rafa Bartolome

Voted 10/10

Jonás, las coordenadas dicen en SP de ponerlas en decimal, no en hexadecimal. Lo explica aquí


Antes daba igual pero ahora al darle al INTERACTIVE MAP sale el mapa de Google vía satélite con la posición correcta. El Naranjo queda fuera del macizo de los Picos de Europa actualmente si no cambias las coordenadas (se divide por 60 los minutos y por 3600 los segundos).


Te ahorro el trabajo con las coordenadas de mi mapa de Alpina digital de picos de Europa:


43.20278N


4.82674W (es decir -4.82674)


Así te saldrá junto a Peña Castil en el sitio exacto.


Si necesitas de algún otro monte tengo varios mapas digitales de varias zonas.
Posted Oct 12, 2005 12:36 pm
TodoVerticalUntitled Comment

TodoVertical

Hasn't voted

Gracias Rafa !! No tengo casi tiempo que dedicarle a SummitPost. Bastante tengo con mantener mi propia web, por cierto, te reitero el ofrecimiento de insertar reseñas (por supuesto que te pondría los créditos) y te ofrezco la posibilidad de tener rafa@todovertical.com redireccionado a tu correo. Veo que te gusta mucho lo de las reseñas y si lo quieres hacer en castellano pues ahí está ...





Si tienes tiempo y te apetece hacer lo mismo con el resto de montañas que tengo bienvendio.





Gracias y un abrazo,





Jonás
Posted Oct 12, 2005 2:10 pm
kabernicolaese bable!

kabernicola

Voted 10/10

Hey Jonás, lo del nombre del naranjo en bable creo que es PICU URIELLU...y soy una fuente autorizada ya que mi abuelo materno (al que no conocí ya que murio antes de que yo naciera) era asturianU. Un abrazo Jonás del Cabeza
Posted Apr 17, 2007 2:05 pm
TodoVerticalHola

TodoVertical

Hasn't voted

Carlos,



tienes tosa la razón !!



Ahora mismo lo cambio



Un abrazo,



Jonás
Posted May 10, 2007 1:21 am
Diego SahagúnVega Urriello, incomunicado

Diego Sahagún

Hasn't voted

http://www.desnivel.com/deportes/escalada_en_roca/object.php?o=15884
Posted Jun 13, 2007 6:22 am
Diego SahagúnRefugo Vega de Urriellu site

Diego Sahagún

Hasn't voted

http://www.picuurriellu.com/site/refugio.htm



The site showed in the page doesn't work for me.
Posted Jul 9, 2008 7:00 am
Diego SahagúnPidal, el Naranjo y una medalla de oro

Diego Sahagún

Hasn't voted

http://www.desnivel.com/newsletter/desnivelaldia/object.php?o=17421
Posted Jul 30, 2008 2:26 pm

Viewing: 1-13 of 13    

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