Getting ThereFrom Sedona- From the Arizona highway 89A and 179 junction in downtown Sedona, travel south for about 1/2 a mile to Schnebly Hill Road. Turn left on Schnebly Hill road. You will pass a Red Rocks kiosk/parking pass area and if you need a Red Rock Pass get it here because a pass is needed for parking. Once you get on the dirt road, travel for just over 1.3 miles and you will see a pull out on the left side (can fit 2-3 cars).
ApproachFrom the parking area, your aim is the saddle between the Moose's Butte and the spire of Queen Victoria. Right next to the parking area will be a wash and a small canyon coming into it. Follow this small canyon upstream as it gains elevation. At about .20 miles, the wash intersects with a trail. Take a left and follow this trail west for about .5 miles. This will put you right under the saddle of Moose's Butte and Queen Vitoria. From here, climb up the gully and stay right. Queen Victoria will be towering over you on the left side. The approach normally takes 30 minutes.
Route InformationFrom the saddle, you can see a broken crack system on the East side of Queen Victoria. Traverse in from the right and go out to the ledge to set up the belay.
Regular Route 5.7
Pitch 3- Is the last pitch and it goes up a chopped up and broken chimney. Walk around 10ft and then awkwardly pull a buldge that puts you at a little fin inside of the chimney. Layback and pull yourself over this. From here, its a 4th class scramble to the top belay. (5.7)
Rappel/Descent- Use the same anchors that you used for the top belay. Use your 60m rope and that drops you to the limestone band with more bolts. Rappel again from here and you will be at the bottom of the spire (a 60m rope barely reaches the bottom on this rappel). Careful when you pull your ropes here!!
Gear Needed: Singles of BD #.5-#4 (#4 a must for pitch 2), possibly a set of nuts, 60m rope, 2-3 slings, and helmet