Welcome to SP!  -
Reid Glacier Headwall

Reid Glacier Headwall

Reid Glacier Headwall

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Object Title: Reid Glacier Headwall

Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: AI 2

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: ExcitableBoy

Created/Edited: Dec 8, 2011 / Dec 9, 2011

Object ID: 764768

Hits: 8652 

Page Score: 74%  - 4 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote


Reid Glacier Headwall

Coming up through one of the...
In the couloirs
This often overlooked route boasts steeper and more sustained climbing than either the Leuthold's or Sandy Glacier Couloirs. The route weaves its way through steep, rime covered towers creating an Andean ambiance. Like many routes on Mount Hood, the Reid Glacier Headwall is exposed to ice and rock fall. Insist on cold conditions and start early. The best times for an attempt are December through mid May.

Getting There

Hood from Timberline
South Side route
The Reid Glacier Headwall route starts from Timberline Lodge and follows much of the South Side Hogsback route. From I-5 drive east on US Highway 26. Turn left shortly after Government Camp following signs for Timberline Lodge.

Route Description

Climbing above the second...
In the couloirs
From Timberline Lodge @ 5800 ft acend the Palmer snow field avoiding grooming machines. Reach the top of the ski lifts @ 8,600 ft. From here aim for Ilumination Saddle, the prominent col between Ilumination Rock and the main summit.

Rope up at the col (convenient bivis here) and drop down onto the Reid Glacier aiming for the first significant gulley system. Cross the bergschrund and weave your way up snow and ice slopes to 60 degrees. There is some route latitude here, follow your nose and use your route finding skills. From the top of the headwall traverse the summit ridge east to the highest point. Descend via the South Side route.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and second tool
4-6 screws
2-3 pickets

External Links

Amazing photos of an early December ascent on CascadeClimbers.com

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-2 of 2    
gimpilatorI was looking for this


Hasn't voted

Why is this page not attached to Mount Hood? I couldn't find it for that reason.
Posted Jan 2, 2012 11:53 am


Hasn't voted

I do not know how to attach. I will work on it, is there an article somewhere about it, that is how to do it?

Posted Jan 2, 2012 12:39 pm

Viewing: 1-2 of 2    


Snow Cave - Illumination RockMichael with Illumination RockHood\'s morning shadow and...Entering the second gully on...Brian Jenkins climbing the...IlluminationWest Side Routes Annotated
Brian Jenkins making an...Mt. Hood\'s shadow over the...dkantola and Vincenzo working...The Reid GlacierTwo Climbers - Reid HeadwallCrossing The Reid GlacierComing up through one of the...
[ View Gallery - 1 More Images ]