RouteVery adventurous climb. When in condition it provides a great full pitch of solid ice with a few crux sections along the way. Route starts out with easy ice and progresses to a steep and a little overhanging bulge (crux). When we climbed it, the bulge did not have great placements for feet and required some fun move (M4ish) to be passed. Ice flow was thick and offered solid protection opportunities. As with any ice climb, conditions could make it significantly easier or harder.
I was also able to place a # 1 BD Camalot (Red) and # 3 Metolious (orange). Aside from these two placements I did not see other opportunities for rock pro. After the bulge is passed, follow more fun ice till you reach the snow couloir. It is a full pitch with about 50M of fun ice climbing in a superb setting. Belay from snow pickets in the couloir (which is not as steep as it looks from Cathedral ridge).
Follow the couloir right and over. Solo, simul solo, or belay from the top. Join the North Face route and continue to the Summit.
FA of route- Spring 2012 Vitaliy Musiyenko and Anastasiya Blagoveshenskaya
Getting ThereThe route goes straight up and to the right of the Cathedral Spire. Prominent snow couloir partly comes into sun and produces a water ice flow on the steep wall bellow it.
To approach, traverse towards Cathedral Spire bellow Eliot headwall or hike up the glacier passing the shrund. In my opinion the easiest way to approach is to hike up over the summit via hogsback, drop down, and traverse under the Eliot HW.
We camped right across from the route in a beautiful setting.
It could easily be done as a car to car climb. Good cardio day, great alpine setting, with a pitch of superb climbing...and NO LINE!
Protection5-10 ice screws (depending on comfort level)
BD #1 camalot (red)
Metolious #3 (orange)
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