ApproachStart as for the standard south side climb. Above the ski lift, begin an upward traverse aiming for the Illumination Saddle. If conditions may be above freezing during the day, camp here for an early start. If it's cold, leave earlier from Timberline Lodge, and do the whole thing in a day.
Route DescriptionRope up at Illumination Rock, and begin a slightly downward traverse toward Yocum ridge. This traverse can be quite steep depending on the snow conditions that year. Above are several tempting couliors. They are steeper than Leuthold, and some end up among the castle crags, which is difficult.
Keep traversing until the last big coulior before Yocum Ridge. Right away the coulior narrows and steepens. This is the hourglass, and the most likely place to get nailed by rockfall. Sprint through this short section. The slope is less steep, and the coulior widens after the hourglass is passed.
From here, stay in the biggest coulior, DO NOT TURN LEFT. You'll end up in a dead end coulior on Yocum Ridge. The coulior ends at a shoulder, and you're on the summit ridge. Turn right, and follow the ridge to the summit. The ridge has nice exposure, but isn't too narrow.
Once on the summit, descend the standard south side route.
This is a great climb to prepare for Cooper Spur or Sandy Headwall. It's my favorite route on the mountain.
Essential GearIce Axe, crampons. No need for second ice tool or screws. If you choose to rope up, some pickets would be a good idea. Quick self-arrest skills are the best protection on this route. A helmet is mandatory. In winter and spring small chunks of ice constantly hiss down, funneling through the hourglass. In summer rockfall is more than likely.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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