OverviewWide group located between the "Valle del Piave", the "Canale d’Agordo" and the "Valle di Zoldo". It is also part of the "Parco delle Dolomiti Bellunesi", and placed in the east part of it.
"La Schiara", also called in the local dialect "S'ciara", it's a Dolomite peak that overlooks the village of "Belluno", for more than 2000 meters drop in altitude, and the major elevation of the entire group.
It is also a group by itself. The structure of the mountain encloses two other summits and several minor peaks. "Schiara" 2565m, "Burel" 2281m and together with the "Pelf" 2502m, look if seen from south, like a giant rocky wall about 800 meters high from the base. If seen from far, they seem a compact wall; but unlikely they have several series of caves, pillars and secondary ridges.
Except for the proper Schiara massif, the rest of the group contains many subgroups that should have specific classifications, difficult to list in the same page. Amongst of them, the most important are: "Terne-Tiròn-Sabiòi" chain, "Monte Talvena" and "Monte Coro".
In this page will be listed only the characteristics of the main Schiara group enclosed between the "Forcella Nerville" and the "Canale d'Agordo".
The southern side is bordered on east by the “forcella Marmol” (2262m) and on west by the “forcella Sperti” (2331m). At the base of the main wall, a particular cave is called "Porton".
East part of mount Schiara, the Pelf 2502m with the carecteristic round shape, but with less climbing interests. The Burel and the west side of the massif 2281m, not very high but with an impressive south face above the Canale d’Agordo (numerous climb routes on this wall).
Also on the south side, four “via ferrata” has been created, and they allow interesting approaches to the mountain.
Ferrate: "Sperti", "Zacchi","Marmol" and "Berti" leads to the main peak.
On different key positions, were also set up three useful bivouacs: "Biv Sperti" (2000m), "Biv. Bernardina" (2320m) and "Biv. Bocco" (2266m).
Starting point for most tours is the refuge "7th Alpini" (1500m) reachable from the hamlet "Case Bortot" above Belluno (path 501.) in 3 hours.
Subgroups that belongs to Schiara massif
Monte Talvena 2542m
Cime de Zità 2465m 2451m 2450m
Cime del Bachèt 2284m 2342m 2297m 2241m
Zest del Vescovà 2379m
Cime della Scala 1902m
Pelf (2502 m);
Cime di Caiàda 1850m
Cima del Burel 2281m
Monte Zelo 2083m
Monte Coro 1985m
Pale Magre 2136m
Catena del Terne-Tiròn-Sabiòi
Monte Terne 1794m
Cima dei Sabiòi 1997m
Pale dei Pinèi 1995m 1964m 1890m
Catena della Pala Alta
Pala Alta 1933m
Pala Bassa 1862m
Monte Serva 2133m
Other minor peaks of the main Schiara massifTORRIONE FRANCESCO AGNOLI 2209m
It is the massive tower, visible from the refuge 7° Alpini, which forms the eastern corner pillar on the south wall of the Schiara; and with the Pelf, the entrance to the south couloirs of Marmol.
CAMPANILE ALVISE ANDRICH
It’s the one on the right of the two towers that rise at the foot of the south wall of Schiara; between the Porton and the Torre Agnoli. It is shaped like a spire, with a south wall and two lateral ridges.
TORRIONE “ALDO COMUNELLO”
It's the bold tower separate from the Porton by a deep gorge located immediately on the left of the Campanile Andrich.
TORRIONE IVANA 2150m
PULPITO DEI CAMORZ 1848m
It's the visible cylindrical spike that extends at the foot of the south wall of Schiara.
GUSELA DEI VESCOVA’ 2365m
Small but very sharp spire, visible from Belluno. Despite high only 40 meters, it is impressive for the purity of the line and the isolation on the ridge.
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th PALE DEL BALCON
Rocky ridge with numerous peaks, enclosed between the Gusela del Vescovà and the Burel.
IL NASON 2385m
It's the highest elevation of the Pale Balcon. Very characteristic shape like a big nose that gives it its name.
Group of small towers on the south side of the mountain:
Torre Treviso 2000m
Torre Renata 2000m
Torre Franco Naldini
Torre Giovanna 2150m
Routes overview of the main Schiara massif
Old normal route. from "forcella Marmol". Not recommended. Nowadays are prefer the more modern ferrate.
Very long approach. The north side of the mountain is very impressive but with a little climb interest. From I° to III° with a passage of IV° below the summit. Troublesome.
From biv.Bernardina. Funny and nice climb. 400m II°/III°.
Northwest wall(left side):
From biv.Bernardina. Bad rocks. 400m IV°/V°.
Nortwest wall(via dei Polacchi):
From biv.Bernardina. Very interesting. 400m VI°/A2
From biv.Bernardina. Nice and classic route. 400m III°/IV°.
South wall(via Zacchi-Olivotto):
From the base of the wall. 800m II°/III° with a passage of IV°.
South wall(via Sperti-Viel):
From the base of the wall. Same difficulties than Zacchi-Olivotto but more advisable.
South couloir(via diretta):
From the base of the wall. 800m IV°/V°.
South pillar(via diretta):
First part in common with "ferrata Zacchi". 550m IV°/V° A2.
Grande Diedro del Burel:
1500 m of difference in elevation, in Dolomites the 2nd for height after the Agner N spur. Bebak, Ferenski, Zawadzki (polish) + Garna and Gianeselli were the first climbers in 1974 then some more routes were opened
Vie FerrateVia Ferrata Zacchi:
Via ferrata Zacchi leads from the "Porton"(1780m), about 25 minutes from the refuge "7° Alpini"(1502m) to the bivouac "Ugo Dalla Bernardina"(2320m), not far from the Gusela del Vescovà, along the south face of mount Schiara.
It is considered one of the most beautiful and difficult ferrata in the Dolomites, although the large number of steps which limits a bit the charm.
The ferrata rises vertically alternating pieces almost always unshod (presence of many chimneys), and spare no path equipped, while the last step leading to the camp in the horizontal direction along the ledge "Zacchi".
The travel time of the via ferrata is about 2:30 to 3:00 hours.
The ascent to the summit of Mount Schiara is possible thanks to the Via Ferrata Berti, about an hour.
Via Ferrata Berti:
Built in 1959, represents the continuation of the Via ferrata Zacchi, in fact it starts from the bivouac Ugo Dalla Bernardina(2320m), reaching the top of the mountain about an hour to the 2565 meters of the summit.
The ferrata, equipped with wire ropes and ladders, it is quite difficult even if it requires the same attention.
Via Ferrata Marmòl:
It was completed in 1967, but have recently been modernized equipment. It goes along the cliffs to the south-east of Mount Schiara.
Along the ferrata track uphill, make the first 100 meters in common with the Via ferrata Zacchi.
The ferrata can be reached in around 3:30, about 2262 meters, passing the bivouac Bocco.
Usually, however, given its modest difficulty, the ferrata is crossed downwards, as a continuation of the Via ferrata Zacchi and Via Ferrata Berti.
The iron ropes can also be used to reach the summit of Mount Pelf (forcella Marmol must walk the path equipped Marino Guardian).
Via Ferrata Sperti:
From the refuge 7°Alpini, take the path 504 leading the attack the ferrata (1800 meters. About; 0:45 from refuge).
This ferrata, offers many interesting passages and glimpses of rare beauty, but should be approached with caution (long stretches without equipment).
Reached until the Bivouac Sperti(2100 m), then climb up a gully and a steep wall to "forcella Sperti".Then goes on to ledges, and continuous up and down untill the bivouac "U. Dalla Bernardina".
Few photos of Ferrata Zacchi:
AccomodationsRefuge 7° Alpini: 1500m Places 60+9 From "Case Bertot" 3.00h E
Refuge Fulvio Bianchet: 1250m Places 40+6 From Pinei 2.30h T
Bivouac Sperti: 2000m Places 6 From ref. 7°Alpini 2hours EE
Bivouac Ugo della Bernardina: 2320m Places 6 From ref. 7°Alpini 2.30hours EEA
Bivouac Bocco al Marmòl: 2266m Places 9 From ref. 7°Alpini 2hours EEA
Bivouac Medassa: 1340m Places 8 From "Case Bortot" 2h E