OverviewLastoni di Formin m. 2657
A steep and wide face of pure “dolomia” sprouting from the meadows… the Lastoni di Formin are an amazing massif lying on the boundary ridge between Cortina d’Ampezzo and San Vito di Cadore municipalities, in the Eastern Dolomites. It runs between the Croda da Lago-Cernera Group and Passo Giau m. 2236, one of the highest road pass of the Dolomites. Their Ladin place-name is “Lastoi de Formin” and the culminating point is named Ponta dei Lastoi. The long and imposing 350 meters high West face is running very steeply side by side to the Cortina-Passo Giau road; surrounded by a wide extent of woods and meadows, creating a surprising contrast, it terminates on Forcella Giau m. 2360; on the contrary the East side shows a sloping rocky Karst tableland, degrading gently towards the Croda da Lago group and skirting the Formin Valley. Another stunning face South oriented runs from Forcella Giau, overlooking the meadows of Mondeval. Unlike the majority of the Dolomites’ peaks, which don’t show a weak side, this particular structure is the reason of Lastoni di Formin easy accessibility on their Eastern side; a simple but absolutely satisfactory and magnificent hike starting from Passo Giau will lead you on the mountain’s highest point at 2657 m.
On the opposite steep and attractive West face we can find a great number of beautiful climbing routes Dolomites style. Also the South face offers several interesting routes, both trad and modern.
The best starting point is Passo Giau m. 2236, one of the highest pass in the Dolomites, offering a breathtaking view over the majority of the Eastern and Western Dolomites.
Passo Giau is situated at 16 km. from Cortina d’Ampezzo m. 1230 (Belluno province), the main resort in this area. Cortina can be approached from Belluno or from Bolzano:
- Road approach from Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo.
- Road approach from Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 51 along Pusteria Valley, reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo.
From Cortina d’Ampezzo m. 1230 to Passo Giau m. 2236
– Follow the road SS48 to Falzarego Pass and in Pocol turn to left following the Road SP638 to Passo Giau (16 km. from Cortina).
Lastoni di Formin Normal Route from Ponte di Rocurto
- Lastoni di Formin Normal Route from Ponte di Rocurto
Difficulty: Easy Walk
Ascent length: 900 m.
Total time: 6 hours
An amazing circular trail leading easily to Punta dei Lastoi, the highest summit of Lastoni di Formin. Here you’ll see one of the best view of the Dolomites. The route’s starting point is situated at Rocurto Bridge m. 1709, along the SP638 from Cortina d’Ampezzo to Passo Giau.
From Ponte di Rocurto (parking) follow the path n. 437 leading to Cason de Formin m. 1875. Turn to right and follow the path n. 435, rising along Val Formin, dominated by the beautiful massif of Croda da Lago. The path is getting to the reddish saddle named Forcella dei Lastoi m. 2462, also named Forcella Rossa (Reddish Saddle). Here you must leave the marked path (descending towards the Alpe Mondeval) and turn to right following at first towards West, then toward NW, a poor trail with several cairns crossing all the rocky Karst tableland and leading to Punta Lastoi, the culminating point of Lastoni di Formin. From the summit follow the same trail towards Forcella dei Lastoi or Forcella Rossa. Here carry on along the path n. 435 descending in the opposite side of the saddle col towards the Alpe Mondeval. The path crosses another path marked with the number 436 coming from Passo Giau: follow it towards Forcella Ambrizzola m. 2277, then turn to left reaching the Palmieri Hut m. 2046. From here a path comes back to Casoni di Formin; again the first part of the itinerary will lead you to the starting point.
Lastoni di Formin Normal Route from Passo Giau
- Lastoni di Formin Normal Route from Passo Giau
Difficulty: Easy Walk
Ascent length: 450 m.
Total time: 3,30 hours
Another shorter but amazing route leading to Punta dei Lastoi is starting from Passo Giau, m. 2236.
From the little Chapel of S. Giovanni Guadalberto on Passo Giau (parking) follow the path n. 436 to Forcella Zonia and Forcella Col Piombin; after a short descent the path rises at Forcella Giau m. 2360, then a new gentle descent leads to Malga Mondeval di Sopra; the path turn towards left rising towards Forcella Ambrizzola. Before getting to the col leave the path and turn to left following the path n. 462 to Forcella dei Lastoni or Forcella Rossa m. 2462. At the saddle you must leave the main path and follow on the left, at first towards West, then toward NW, a poor trail with several cairns crossing all the rocky Karst tableland and leading to Punta Lastoi, the culminating point of Lastoni di Formin. Descent along the same itinerary.
Lastoni di Formin Area main climbing routesLastoni di Formin Area main climbing routes
Lastoni di Formin Area offers a great choice of classic routes running on the long West wall facing the road to Passo Giau. There are also some moderne ones; these latters are mainly located on the secluded South Face of Punta Lastoi - or Spiz de Mondeval - which dominates the wonderful basin of Mondeval.
According to the Italian climbing areas' habit, trad routes grades are expressed with the UIAA Scale, while modern routes grades are expressed with the French Scale.
*** Torrione Marcella West face
It's a slender tower on the left hand side of the main West face.
- Via Nikibi French 6b+, 6a obbl., 280 m., bolts- M. Dibona, G. Alexander 2002
- Via Paolo Amedeo V+, 260 m. - M. Dibona, A. Nascè 2001
*** Lastoni di Formin West face (from left to right)
- Gran Diedro, Pilastro Priolo VI (VI-, A0) 280 m., trad route - G.Buzzi, G.Calzi, R.Priolo, N.Zeper 1974
- Via dei Bolognesi IV, IV+ 280 m. - F. Bonetti, P. Bonetti, P.Mezzacasa 1977
- Via della Rampa (SW Spur) IV+, 270 m., trad route - M. Bernardi, C. Denicolò 2004 (first 3 pitches) M. Pradel, M. Savio, R. Daniele 1980 (upper pitches)
- Supertegolina 7a, 6b obbl., 350 m. - Bolts - F. Piardi, F. Tremolada 1999
*** Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval South face
- Re Artù 6b, 350 m., bolts - Mario Dibona & co.
- Love my dogs 6c+, 6b obbl., 300 m., bolts - M. Dibona, G. Alexander
- Sperone sinistro IV+, 315 m. - K. Hoi, H. Nau 1985
- Via del Diedro Nero V+, A0 (or VI), 270 m., trad route - K. Hoi, H. Nau 1985
- Pilastro Sud VI-, A0, 340 m., trad route - M. Alverà, P. Pompanin, C. Menardi 1977 (first 7 pitches) L. Dallpalma, T. Andriolo (upper pitches)
*** IV and V Bastione de Mondeval m. 2500
- Sperone Irene V, 230 m. - M. Bernardi, I. Demetz 2004
- Via della Placca Nera III, IV, 180 m. - E. Cipriani, T. Cavattoni 1992
*** Cima Cason di Formin
- Diedro Dallago IV, 330 m. - F. Dallago, D. Costantini 1970
- Via Menardi-Alverà V, V+ (a short move) 270 m. - A. Menardi, M. Alverà 1975
- Via Cecilia VI, 260 m. - P. Bellodis, C. De Filippo 2003
Red TapeThere are not particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE list and requires the best care and respect.
When to climb and hikeBest season goes from June to October
Where to stay
- Passo Giau Hut m. 2236
RIFUGIO PASSO GIAU
- Gianni Palmieri Hut at Croda da Lago m. 2042
DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail email@example.com
Guidebooks and Maps
“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna
“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia
Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000