Overview
Crozzon di Brenta is the most mighty rock structure in the Brenta's Dolomites.
It has 3 summits : north one is the main (there is a small refuge for climbers coming from the walls)
a big channel N (canalone Neri, 900m) and a very dangerous W channel (400m) divides Cima Tosa from Crozzon
It has
a big convex wall : E - NE (600 to 900 m drop)
a long N edge (900m)
a big W wall (800 to 450m drop)
a long and indented ridge chains it with the Cima Tosa (the highest summit in the group) : the 2 summits long 400 metres but almost without drop.
Photosthese Crozzon di Brenta's photos are already linked to the
Brenta Dolomites page
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A MUST for climbersA lot of routes has been traced on the 2 big walls and some routes are a MUST for climbers who want to make a serious dolomite campaign.
| UIAA | French | USA | | 1° | F | 2 | | 2° | PD | 3 - 4 | | 3°inf - 3° - 3° sup | AD | 5 - 5.2 | | 4° inf - 4° - 4° sup | D | 5.3 - 5.5 | | 5° inf - 5° - 5° sup | TD | 5.6 - 5.8 | | 6° inf - 6° - 6° sup | ED | 5.9 - 5.11 | | 7° | EX | 5.11a - 5.11b |
Routes are traced on the pics in this section
the most famous is the via delle Guide (NE face - Detassis-Giordani 1935) - TD - wonderful and amusing climb (L (black) on the photo)
the easiest is the spigolo del Crozzon (N edge - Schneider-Schulze 1905) - D inf - long and classic (the edge to the right on the photo)
the most classic modern climbing is the pilastro dei Francesi (NE pillar - Frehel-Leprince 1965) - ED inf (G (green) )
many other routes are worth to be climbed :
 |  | on the E-NE wall - Aste-Navasa - ED inf (F (red))
- Preuss (and variants) - D (H (blue))
- Andreotti-Dorigatti-Steinkotter - TD (I (purple))
- Livanos-Lepage-Romanetti - TD sup (M (orange))
- Graffer-Miotto - D
| on the West wall - Detassis-Castiglioni - D (c (blue))
- Armani Giuliano - Td inf (cb (purple))
- Andreolli-Casiraghi - TD ( (black))
- Livanos-Lepage-Vaucher - Ed inf (d (red))
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I think that some more modern routes has been traced on these walls
Getting Therefor all climbs the starting point is Rifugio Brentei (2182 m) (Rifugio Maria e Alberto ai Brentei)
you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m)
by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei, then path 318
2 h walk from Vallesinella
Red Tapenatural park
When To ClimbJuly - August - September
in July the ridge from Crozzon to Cima Tosa (normal route) may be full with snow and ice and dangerous (iceaxe necessary !!)
in August huts are full with hikers
in September all is OK before Brentei gets closed
CampingSant' Antonio di Mavignola
if you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)
Mountain ConditionsBeware of storms in the afternoon (some climbs can have waterfalls).
Images
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