View from Valley of Zai (Zaytal = Valle do Zai) to the Tschenglser Hochwand (Croda di Cengles), 3375 m. July 2004
Tschenglser Hochwand (Italian: Croda di Cengles) is situated in Italian South Tyrol (Südtirol / Alto Adige) in Ortler Group. The summit is 3375 m high and it is one of the best view points to Ortler and neighboring mountains.
The mountain lies on the northern end of valley called Zaytal (Valle di Zai) and in the northeast has its “own” glacier: Tschenglser Ferner (Vedretta di Cengles). Opposite, in the southeast, in the another side of Zaytal, we have the following summits: Kleine Angelusspitze (L’Angelo Piccolo, 3318 m), Hohe Angelusspitze (L’Angelo Grande, 3521 m) and Vertainspitze (Cima Vertana, 3545 m). In northwest of Tschenglser Hochwand lies the valley of Razoi.
The first ascent of Tschenglser Hochwand (Croda di Cengles) was achieved in 1871 by V. Hecht and guide J. Pingerra.
The best outgoing point to Tschenglser Hochwand is a little town Sulden (Solda), which lies on the height of 1907 m. There is no train station, Sulden is best reachable by car (or bus):
1. From southern Germany: Munich – Garmisch – Landeck – Reschenpass, then in Italy road SS 40 via Mals, later SS 38 via Schlunders towards Passo dello Stlevio, before pass, in Gomagoi turn left towards Sulden.
2. From Austria: Innsbruck – Landeck - Reschenpass, in Italy road SS 40 via Mals, later SS 38 via Schlunders towards Passo dello Stlevio, before pass, in Gomagoi turn left towards Sulden.
3. From the Italian South Tyrol – Bolzano – by road SS38 Merano – Schlandres – towards Passo dello Stelvio, before pass, in Gomagoi turn left towards Sulden.
4. From Italian Lombardia: from Milan by SS36 towards Lake Como, later by SS 38 towards Sondrio, through Passo dello Stelvio, in Gomagoi turn right towards Sulden.
No permits or fees for climbing are required. The mountain lies in the area of Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio (National Park Stilfser Joch).
Official site of the National Park
When To Climb
The best season is July to September. Fresh snow and bad weather conditions are possible in high summer also. In early summer there is often snow in higher parts of Zay valley.
The actual weather conditions could be proofed here:
Site of South Tyrol
Site of Ortler area in Sulden
you can always see the alpine weather on that webiste:
Wetaher by OeAV (Austrian Alpine Club)
All three mostly used routes to the summit of Tschenglser Hochwand (Croda di Cengles) are leading from the hut Düsseldorfer Hütte, called also Zaytalhütte (Italian: Rifugio Serristori). The hut is best reachable from the little town Sulden (Solda) on the marked route nr 5. The way from Sulden to Düsseldorfer Hütte takes two and half hours. You can take also chair lift from Sulden to Kanzel station (2350 m), then the marked route nr 12 to the left, which later meets the route nr 5, leading from Sulden.
From the Düsseldorfer Hütte continue the marked route nr 5, partially through the snow fields. After about 30 minutes on the right we find a small lake (i Laghetti), on about 2900 m. Just after the lake, on about 3000 m, we can choose one of the three possibilities:
1. Normal way, which is leading on the left, along a gully to the good visible pass. Later on southwest ridge light climbing to the summit, no equipment needed.
2. Erich-Otto Klettersteig (via ferrata) leads direct through a stone ridge. That is not typical via ferrata, but many sections are secured with steel cable, there are also some artificial steps and ladders on the way. Befroe summit, on the southwest ridge Erich-Otto ferrata meets the normal route. Via ferrata equipment is recommended, it is better to use that route for ascent only.
3. New via ferrata through the south face. It was built in 2002 and is really exposed You will seldom walk here, mostly climb, and many vertical sections are difficult,. Only with ferrata equipment, like climbing harness with ferrata-set, helmet and gloves.
4. Possible is also a long way from Prad am Stilfser Joch (Prato allo Stelvio). Start is on 915 m, in Prad take the marked route nr 3, towards Gampenhütte (2014 m), then route 3A through the summit of Pederfick (Pietrafitta, 3114 m) and on west ridge to the summit. That is a very long route with big elevation difference (thanks Mathias Zehring for tip:)
Kompass: Nr 72, Ortler/Ortles-Cevedale, 1:50.000
Kompass: Nr 636, Ortler/Ortles-Stilfser Joch/Passo dello Stelvio, 1:25.000
Tabacco: Nr 08, Gruppo Ortles - Cevedale/Ortlergruppe, 1:25.000
Near Tschenglser Hochwand (Croda di Cengles) is the Düsseldorfer Hütte, called also Zaytalhütte, in Italian - Rifugio Serristori. It lies on 2721 m in Zaytal (Valle di Zai). This hut exists since 1892 and today belongs to Milan section of CAI (Club Alpine Itatliano). Düsseldorfer Hütte is managed by Reinstadlers, a famous family of alpine guides in Ortler area.
The hut is reachable from Kanzel lift station, on the marked route nr 12 or direct from Sulden, route nr 5.
Details (in German or Italian only) are to find here:
Duesseldorfer Huette/Rifugio Serristori
Another possibilities of accommodation you find sure in the town Sulden. There are many hotels, pensions and guest houses of different classes, partially with camping sites. They are to find here:
Holiday Region Ortler