JenEric Stain, 5.9PG, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

This is yet another water streak route on Exit Dome.  MP.com mentions that the first pitch of JenEric is more challenging that the first 5.10 pitch on Trigger Happy.  Seems fairly accurate to me, therefore this is not the best lead for the budding 5.9 sport climber.  It is bolted conservatively but more than the five clips listed in the local guide.  This first pitch is long and the bolting is spacious via sustained face climbing.  On top of that this is also the “crunchiest” route on Exit Dome with half of the edges shedding some rock as I weighted them.  The 1st pitch is almost exclusively an edge and side pull climb.  The rock is darker than the routes further east, but less trafficked for sure.  The 2^nd pitch is adventurous as well for its grade, 5.7+PG. 

There are conflicting opinions on the best approach option to Exit Dome routes in the guide and on MP.com.  The best way to approach all of the Exit Dome routes is simply to head into the canyon as you would for Entrance Dome, which means you will be leaving the wash early to start following cairns up and right as though you were heading for the SE facing Entrance Dome routes, i.e., Full Circle.  Approximately 100’ before you reach Full Circle (the base of Entrance Dome’s SE face) traverse left at the top of a gully and follow intermittent cairns (2023) west as you circumvent Entrance Dome.  The trick is not to be sucked to high as you traverse through brush, but also not to lose any elevation.  Eventually several small fins of rock start to protrude.  Gain the top of these slick rock opportunities to avoid brush and make it to a cave like atmosphere created by a very large fin of rock laying at the center of the south face of Exit Dome.  Iron Man, Ladies Man and Sole Man all start here.  There is one bolt line to the east that is Maintenance Man, which is not a worthy route.  Iron Man and Ladies Man share the same fixed rap stations. When climbing Sole Man, which is a three-pitch route, you can rap west into a gully formed by the massive fin below and climb Grain Surgery, JenEric Stain, Trigger Happy and Cave Man which all share the same top rap station with Sole Man.  When finished, you can rap back to the start of Ladies Man, Sole Man and Iron Man where it is best to leave your packs.   

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 130’-5.9+/ Squeeze under a tree atop a fin of rock in the well shaded gully, clip a bolt, place a piece or two of gear and follow bolts up and left to a chain anchor just a few meters east of the fixed anchor for Caveman.  Crunchy edges and side pulls.  Steep and fun though.

2^nd Pitch- 165’-5.7+PG/ Step up and right onto a diagonal feature for several meters of exposure to reach the first bolt, thus the PG.  From there the whole pitch eases off  below grade, slinging features or placing cams between plates to join the top of Sole Man and its fixed anchor.

Descent

Assuming you rapped into the route from Sole Man, to get back to your packs, rap Sole Man with a single 70m.  

Essential Gear

70m rope.  Dozen draw/sling mix.  A few cams, small to medium.  Route gets full sun.  Hiking poles for the approach are recommended.