OverviewThe "Wilder Pfaff" (italian name: "Cima del Prete"), located on the austian-italian border is the 5th highest mountain in the Stubai alps (after Zuckerhütl, Schrankogel, Sonklarspitze and Ruderhofspitze)
A mountain sending impressive ridges exactly towards north, south (towards Sonklarspitze), west (towards Wilder Freiger) and east (towards Zuckerhütl). Its central position makes it a very frequently climbed mountain, especially climbed together with the Zuckerhütl. From the Müller-Hütte is is reached by crossing a short glacier and a scrambling (grade II). The way to the Pfaffensattel (3344) (and further to the Zuckerhütl) is again going over a glacier. The easiest ascent is consequently without significant difficulties (easy glacier-crossing and scrambling II).
A nice photo is included in the "Wilder Freiger" site.
Getting ThereThis description describes a route to the Wilder Freiger, from where the Wilder Pfaff is easily reached:
The City of Innsbruck is immediately North of the Stubai Alps, from here you can travel by bus to the Stubai Valley, which has several stops down the valley, one of which is at Ranalt where the route begins. You could travel by car from Innsbruck, towards the Brenner Pass and over the impressive Europa Bridge, but you have to pay a tax for the road. Turn off the Autobahn at the junction for the Stubai valley. Follow the only road up the valley until you reach Ranalt, you can park just beyond Ranalt, where the path to the Nurnberger hut starts. From here follow the well marked paths up to the Nurnberger Hut, there are estimated times of journey on the signposts which are very accurate. It is also possible to climb the mountain from the Italian side (I coppied that from madmountaineer on the Wilder Freiger site - thank you)
If you decide to climb the Wilder Pfaff from the Zuckerhütl, look at the Zuckerhütl site for a description.
The Wilder Pfaff is as well reached from the Italian side (via Becherhaus or Müllerhütte) though I (for the moment) have no information how to reach these huts from the italian valley. (Nevertheless, both huts a easily reached from the austrian side.)
Red TapeNo fees, no permissions. Highways in Italy and Austria can be used only when a fee is paid. An *additional* fee has to be paid for the Brenner-Autobahn from Innsbruck to Brenner).
Since the summit (and parts of the trail) belong to the italian/austrian border, a passport should be taken along (occasionally italian customs officers are met).
When To ClimbSummer: (May) June - September
Winter (I have no information on this, though it should be possible)
CampingThe whole area is a national park which prohibits camping, possibly bivouaking is allowed. Sleeping is of course possible in the surrounding huts.
Camping might be possible in Volderau (some kilometers from Neustift im Stubaital).
Huts in the Vicinity - Ascents - Mountain ConditionsMüllerhütte: 3143 m, Tel.: +(I) 337 / 451384 (open 1. July - 15. Sept.)
They have a homepage: Müllerhütte
From this hut the Wilder Pfaff is reached within 1 h.
Becherhaus: 3190 m, Tel.: +(I) 472 / 66377 (open July - Sept.)
They have a homepage: Becherhaus
From this hut one goes within 30 min to the Müllerhütte and proceeds to the Wilder Pfaff.
Hildesheimer Hütte: 2899 m, Tel.: +(A) 5254 / 2090 (in the valley) (open July - Sept.)
From this hut one crosses the Pfaffenferner and the Sulzenauferner (glaciers) to reach the Pfaffensattel (3344 m, 2 h) and the 30 min to the summit. Attention: Enormous crevasses - rope is essential)
Dresdner Hütte: 2302 m, Tel.: +(A) 5226 / 8112 (open whole year except June)
Easy to reach with a cablecar; from there via Fernauferner, Langepfaffennieder, Sulzenauferner and Pfaffensattel (3h) to the summit.
Sulzenauhütte: 2191m, Tel.:
+(A) 5226 / 2432 (open June - Sept.)
Via the Lübeckerweg (4 h) to the Wilder Freiger, from there to the Müller Hütte and the Wilder Pfaff.
Mountain Conditions should be available from these sources!
Winter climbing: Propability of avalanges can been found here: Lawinenwarndienst - Österreich
Information of alpine weather is found here: Wetter
Guides and MapsThe recommended guide is the "Alpenvereinsführer" "Stubaier Alpen - alpin" by Walter Klier (Bergverlag Rother)
A detailed map is available from the Alpenverein (Hochstubai - 31/1 1: 25000)
A good map showing the Stubai alps in complete as well as parts of the Zillertaler alps is sold by freytag & berndt (Innsbruck Stubai - Sellrain Brenner 1:50000, WK241).
First AscentThe Wilder Pfaff has been first ascended by R. Gutberlet, A. Pfurtscheller, and A. Tanzer at 26.7.1870 starting from the Pfaffensattel
- Austrian Map online
Online digital maps of Austria (OEK 50, OEK 200 and OEK 500) by the BEV (Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen) - in German
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