OverviewWildspitze, situated in the Weisskamm Ridge, in the Oetztal Alps, is the the second highest mountain in Austria and in the province of Tirol. It is the highest mountain in North Tirol. It is also called Oetztaler Wildspitze as there is also a Stubaier Wildspitze in the Stubai Alps. The mountain has two summits (the northern summit, 3765 m, and the southern summit, 3770 m). The northern summit has been losing hight dramatically ("Bergsteiger" edition 1/02, page 15). In older guides its hight is given to be 3772 m, which made it the higher of the two summits.
Though the easiest ascent is short due to the cable car from Mittelberg, all routes need experience in climbing glacial mountains. Ice axe, crampons, harness and rope seem to be essential. The help of a guide might be useful for non-experienced climbers. When the snow is icy, the difficulties might increase substantially.
RoutesYou are invited to add detailed information to the routes section. All difficulties are based on regular conditions (experienced mountaineer, good weather, no icy snow!) as given in the guide.
1a) Starting from the Breslauer Huette via the Mitterkarjoch: 3 1/2 h ( not difficult).
1b) Starting from the Braunschweiger Huette via the Mitterkarjoch: 5 h (not difficult).
1c) Starting from the Cable car station (1st section) via the Mitterkarjoch: 4 h (not difficult).
1d) Starting from the Taschachhaus via the Mitterkarjoch: 3 1/2 h (not difficult).
1e) Starting from the Vernagthaus via Bochkogeljoch and Mitterkarjoch (not difficult)
2) North face (50 degrees, 270 m, difficulties at the bergschrund).
3) Northeast ridge (Jubilaeumsgrat, partly very steep and difficult)
4) Southeast ridge (via the Oetztaler Urkund, UIAA II)
5) Northwest ridge
6) Northwest face (45 - 50 degrees, 250 m)
A traverse from the southern to the northern summit is possible within 10 - 60 min (depending on conditions) A picture for this traverse is given in the route section: Normal route from the Beslauer hut.
Getting ThereMittelberg / Pitztal (1740 m):
Starting point for the Taschach Huette and the Braunschweiger Huette.
At the very southern end of the Pitztal which is reached by leaving the Inntal highway (A12) at Imst.
Pitztaler Gletscherbahn from Mittelberg (cable car):
1st section open from 8:30 am - 4:30 pm (one single ascent for mountaineers is available at 7 am)
2nd section open from 9 am - 3:50 pm
Closed from May, 22. 2002 - July, 6. 2002
Cable car from Mittelberg
Vent / Venter Tal (1895 m):
Starting point for the Vernagt Huette and the Breslauer Huette.
Small village in the Venter Tal which branches towards west at the very south of the Oetztal (route 186).
Cable car from Vent:
December, 21. 2001 - April, 4. 2002: 9.30 am - 4 pm
Breslauer Huette (2844 m): +4352548156 (hut), +436642141579 (mobile), +4352548153 (valley)
Taschachhaus (2432 m): +436641384465 (mobile), +436645346864 (mobile)
Vernagt Huette (2755 m): +436641412119 (mobile)
Braunschweiger Huette (2758 m): +436645353722 (mobile), +43541387535 (valley)
Gästehaus Siegfried in Umhausen, Oetztal (40 km from Vent)
Hotels, mountain lodges, holiday homes, holiday apartments, rooms:
There are three campsites in the Oetztal and one in the Pitztal.
(17 km from Vent)
Camping Oetztal Huben
(27 km from Vent)
Camping Oetztal Laengenfeld
(30 km from Vent)
Mountain Camp Pitztal
(25 km from St. Leonhard)
Online mapsAustrian Map online
Online digital maps of Austria (OEK 50, OEK 200 and OEK 500) by the BEV (Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen) - in German
When To ClimbJuly - September, March - May
Current avalanche conditions
Guides and MapsThe recommended guide is the "Alpenvereinsfuehrer" "Oetztaler Alpen" by Walter Klier (Bergverlag Rother, New edition announced: 2002)
ISBN: 3-7633-1123-8 (Description)
A detailed map is available from the Alpenverein (Wildspitze - 30/6 1: 25000)
Further maps containing southern parts of the Wildspitze area are
Gurgl 30/1 1:25000 and Weißkugel 30/2 1:25000.
These maps are available with or without routes for ski mountaineering (Description).
A good map is sold by freytag & berndt (Ötztal, Pitztal, Kaunertal, Wildspitze 1:50000, WK241).
First Ascent - Historical FactsFirst ascent of the southern summit by Leander Klotz and a local farmer in 1848. First touristic ascent by J. A. Specht with N., L., and H. Klotz August, 26. 1857.
The somewhat higher northern summit (that time) was reached in 1861 by L. Klotz. First touristic ascent by M. von Statzner and F. Senn (one of the founders of the Alpenverein?) September, 24. 1870.