Abril Bypass, 5.8, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

This is an outstanding overlooked route on Stronghold Dome however I can see why it was the last route for me to complete on the dome.  It is sandwiched between the two best routes on the south face, Beeline and Big Time.  From the ground it does not look all that great, but it has a cool chimney section at the grade up high.  Climb the massive right facing corner.  Climb past a tree and into the corner proper.  Continue up the widening crack.  Enter the chimney and chimney up placing a solid #3 and #4.  Local guide calls for gear to #6, but if proficient at the grade, single to #4 will be plenty.  Turn around a time or two and squeeze out at the top of the first pitch of Big Time to rap chains.  To make this a two-pitch route, continue up the left face from a wide crack placing a solid #.75 and #4 before making a fun exposed move at the grade traversing up and right over the corner to the upper face of the dome.  Follow a few bolts from there passing an anchor or two to an easy hand jam finishing crack to the top rap anchor at the top of the dome.  Big holds on the upper face.

Take the standard climbers trail as you would for the Rockfellow group and Cochise Dome.  Half way up, Stronghold Dome’s east face is obvious across the major drainage to the north.  At a sharp left bend in the main trail, look for a climber’s trail that crosses the drainage to the right, about even in elevation as the base of Stronghold Dome.  Follow this trail and turn left at the southeast corner of the dome and walk through a large hole to the south face.  Beeline and Big Time both start immediately after exiting the hole.  Abril Bypass starts at the same spot of Beeline, but takes the right facing corner just left and follows it the whole way through a chimney to reach the top of Big Time’s first pitch.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 200’-5.8/ Start in the right facing corner and climb easy ground below grade past a tree until the corner finally opens up wider and steeper well over a 100’ up. Enter the hanging chimney (crux) with a #3 and #4 protecting the chimney section via constrictions.  Enjoy the chimney whilst switching around a time or two and pop out at the fixed rap anchor atop Big Time’s first pitch.

2^nd Pitch- 150’-5.8/ Climb up the left side wall of the wide crack/corner above placing a #.75 and #4 before making a fun (crux) exposed move from the lower face to the upper right face of the dome.  Pass a few fixed anchors heading for the top of the dome via large features and finish on a short hand crack that leads to the top rap anchor for Stronghold Dome.

Descent

With a 70m single rope, make a short rap to the rap chains to the pillar to the west.   Then rap climbers left, vs the direction of the chains, to avoid getting your ropes stuck in the chimney to climbers right.  There are a variety of rap choices below, but the best is a station at the top of the End Chimneys:  two large cracks that join at a slightly hidden rap.  Make a 70m single rope rap stretcher to blocks below and just west of your packs.

Esssential Gear

70m rope.  Single rack to #4.  Plenty of 60cm slings.  Route gets sun most all day.