Welcome to the Stronghold, 5.10+, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

One of the few quintessential off-width climbs in Cochise is Shake N Bake. It is located on the southeast face of the Stronghold Dome, the wall to climber’s right of the popular Beeline route.  There are several right leaning wide cracks on the southeastern toe of the Stronghold Dome.  Shake N Bake is the cleanest (#4’s, 5’s and 6’s) wide line starting on the shared ramp below an obvious wide right facing corner with a roof.  Shake N Bake is the next crack to the left of this corner. 

Welcome to the Stronghold is the best pairing at the same grade to combine with Shake N Bake. Its first pitch requires a few pieces of gear, but the crux 2nd pitch and the long 3rd pitch are, for the most part, fully bolted.  The first pitch starts directly below Shake N Bake, ascends a short left facing corner and then traverses left to a fixed rap/belay.  The 2nd pitch makes an exposed, but positive, traverse left onto the next face left.  Then up positive steep ground until the last 10 meters where it becomes 5.10+ slab.  It features fun and cool movement through this well bolted section.  The last pitch climbs sparsely placed bolts on easier ground up to a summit head wall that is bolted.  The crux of this pitch is through this steep headwall.  Fixed belay (not a rap) is located on the leftward shoulder.  From this bolted belay, scramble to the top of the south face rap descent used for the Beeline route.

Cut off north of the main trail up to the Rockfellow Group for the Stronghold Dome as you would for Beeline.  Contour around the east side of the dome looking to scout a short left facing corner directly below Shake N Bake.  It has a bolt or two and takes gear.  Climb it to the large sloping ledge above and traverse left to a fixed rap/belay.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 70’-5.9/ The local guide references four bolts as of 2020 but the topo shows two start variations.  I took the left facing corner past a bolt and mantled out the top of it protected by a #3 at the base of Shake N Bake.  Traverse left across a narrow foot ledge to a bolt.  Continue traversing placing a #2 for the 2^nd and then step down to a fixed belay. 

2^nd Pitch- 100’-5.10+/ Traverse left over the arete via a dramatic move with positive holds.  Climb the steep wall to the left on large holds, trending towards the hand crack out left.  Climb it for a bit to reach a bolt line through the crux of the pitch on slab.  Fixed anchor, nine clips and a few pieces of gear.  The crux slab finish is sustained through 30’.

3^rd Pitch- 170’-5.10-/ Local guide says 6 clips and gear.  It is all bolts, more like eight or more than six.  Trend up and right, then back left a bit.  The crux comes after you reach a large sloping ledge and then continue up a short headwall through two additional bolts to a bolted belay.  Make a short scramble to the top rap station for Beeline.

Descent

Make the three single rope raps that you do for Beeline.  A short first rap, mid rap and final rap.

Essential Gear

Single from #.5 to #3 plus half dozen slings, half a dozen quick draws. 60m rope.  Wall gets sun until midafternoon and catches the wind.