Bartlett Cove and Petraeus Wall, 5.7-5.10c

Bartlett Cove and Petraeus Wall, 5.7-5.10c

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 34.08594°N / 116.14716°W
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview/Approach

Wildman, 5.9**
Wildman, 5.9**
Slippery Slope, 5.8*
Slippery Slope, 5.8*

Iceberg Boulders is a relatively new area by Joshua Tree standards with many of the routes established post 2000. These large boulders are laid out on the lower slopes to the west of the Rattlesnake Canyon entrance.  Not a far walk but still considered an obscure location compared to the rest of Indian Cove or Rattlesnake Canyon for that matter. Up the gully from Iceberg Boulders are two little known areas named Petraeus Wall and Bartlett Cove.  You pass Petraeus Wall (located on the right side of the gully) on your way to the top which is Bartlett Cove.  Petraeus’ Stormin’ Norman, 5.10b, route is an obvious bolted right leaning dike.  Once you reach the alcove, there are two bolted climbs on a south facing wall, Name Unkown, 5.7, and Slippery Slope, 5.8*.  A two minute walk southwest finds another bolted south facing route on the arete of the next wall to the west, Kat’s Meow, 5.9*.  The best route of the entire group by far is not in the alcove or in the gully leading up to it, but rather a 20 minute hike west crossing the next gully west and up the opposing slope to a north facing wall that has not been developed much as of 2019.  But it features an obvious, vertical, bolted dike at its west end, Wildman, 5.9**.  All of the before mentioned routes have fixed raps, unheard of by Jtree standards.

It is easier to descend the gully below Wildman’s wall on your return to the parking area completeing a circle basically.  If you do that, you will pass right by Boortemus Boulder, 5.10d* (Iceberg Boulders), which is one of the better trad routes at that grade in the park.

Drive to the Rattlesnake Canyon trailhead parking area and park at a day use picnic spot with its own dead-end road to the west. Pick up a slight trail heading west.  Walk a football field or two along this trail looking for the first shallow canyon coming down the slopes on the left.  You will be looking back southeast (hidden as you walk past them) to locate the two main Iceberg Boulders with the obvious overhanging roof climb under a long roof, Finley’s Crack.   Head up this boulder choked gully to the top, which is Bartlett Cove.

Routes Listed as Approached from Iceberg Boulders

Petraeus Wall

Stormin’ Norman- 40’-5.10b/

Petraeus- 80’-5.10c**/

Bartlett Cove First Wall

Name Unknown- 80’-5.7/ Nice rock on the varnished face to the northeast of Kat’s Meow.  Three bolts supplemented with a few pieces of gear in horizontals.  Shares the fixed rap atop Slippery Slope.  Dow

Slippery Slope- 80’-5.8*/ Fully bolted, 5 bolts, up great rock to a fixed rap.  Nothing special about the climb except for a large and active bee hive in February 2019 just off to the right.  Dow

Bartlett Cove Second Wall

Kat’s Meow- 80’-5.9*/ Kind of a cool climb on short slabs separated by horizontals.  Fully bolted, 6 bolts and 2 old pitons.    Fixed rap atop the route.  Dow

To the West of Bartlett Cove

Wildman- 55’-5.9**/ Overly bolted (8), but fun vertical dike on this north facing varnished wall atop the right side of this obscure shallow canyon.  Fun heavily featured  climbing up the dike.  The first move or two might be 5.9  at most.  Mellow for the grade in Jtree.  Fixed rap atop the route.  Dow