Brownie Girl Dome, 5.6-5.11c

Overview/Approach

 

Brownie Girl Dome is one of several features easily accessed from the Boy Scout trail parking area in Jtree. It is so easily accessed in fact that I have seen folks illegally camp near the dome as it makes for a short distance (15 minutes) back and forth to their auto for water. That said, the walls in this area are rarely climbed.  Whether you are seeking lower or higher grades, the south face of Brownie Girl Dome makes for a full day during the winter months if combined with the south and east facing walls on Seitch.

 

Zonkers Brownies on Brownie Girl Dome is a worthy 5.7 trad route whilst Buster Brown offers an excellent 5.10- experience on the main face just to the left of Zonkers.   Downward Bound is a stout and tall 5.8 challenge on Seitch which also offers three worthwhile 5.11 bolted routes. Most of these routes were established by common FAer’s to Jtree including Gaines and Swain from the 80's through 2000's. Al Swanson established the 5.11 bolted routes on the Seitch.



Park at the Boy Scout trail head. Head north on the main trial. Turn left in front of the first rock formation you come to (Chile Pepper). Then aim for the next formation to the west which is Brownie Girl Dome. Skirt along the left side to find the south facing wall. Seitch is easily reached by hiking up and down the col to the west. Hike all the way down to the desert floor and the south east facing walls of Seitch will be right in front of you after about 5-10 minutes. Miramontes talks in his guide of circumventing Brownie Girl Dome to the north to reach Seitch, but that is the long way around.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the South Wall

James Brown-15m-5.6/

Brownie Points-25m-5.9*/Shares start with the better choice route, Buster Brown. The difference is that you clip the pin above the horizontal and then head left (vs right) on a short but run out dike to huge jugs.

Buster Brown-25m-5.10aR**/This is a worthy 5.10a in Jtree as Miramontes references by giving it two stars in his guide. The start is mid-5th up to the horizontal break. A bomber C4#1 places in the horizontal. A 5.9 move gets you to the second level of the wall, following the obvious vertical dike. Clip a piton (2014) then continue following the dike as it arches up and right towards the fixed rap anchor on top. You pass one bolt along the way. These are the only three pieces of pro I used but I felt the crux was relatively well protected by the two fixed pieces. Brownie Points follows a different dike out left after clipping the piton. Very fun moves. The climbing gets more and more intricate the higher you move. Dow

Brown Sugar-25m-5.11c*/

Tige-25m-5.8R*/This route is considerably more dangerous and run out then Buster Brown. It is fairly sustained for the grade. Start by pulling a small overhang on the lower right side of the main wall. The move or two above the overhang does not protect well, if at all as I recall as you make several moves at the grade in shallow sandy seems. Once up to the horizontal (across the entire wall) you get a solid C4#2 in before continuing up the interesting vertical dike with no pro until about 2/3rds up the upper face (single bolt). A fall prior to reaching this bolt would more than likely result in an injury onto the lower-angled rock below. The dike features seem bomber, but this route sees limited traffic. Once you clip the single bolt, much more comfortable climbing leads to the fixed anchor. Dow

Zonkers Brownies-25m-5.7*/This route is not on the main south face but rather the next feature to the right (east). It is fun and worthy on cool featured rock (Miramontes calls it a water chute). Towards the end you get a little chimney action. Protects well for the aspiring trad leader. Set up a belay off a boulder on top of the formation.  You can rap Buster Brown but would have to leave cord to get your rope over the edge. Thus the last person up this dome for the day will need to walk off the formation (east or west). Dow

Hole in the Wall-20m-5.10c*/

Images

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