Capu Tafunatu

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Haute-Corse 2B, France, Europe
Activities:
Mountaineering
Elevation:
7661 ft / 2335 m
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Capu Tafunatu
Created On: Oct 26, 2016
Last Edited On: Oct 28, 2016

Overview

Capu Tafunatu is the neighbouring peak to famous Paglia Orba (the Corsican "Matterhorn") and, viewed from the south or north side looks quite more impressive as Paglia Orba. It has a higher northern and a southern summit and therefore also a traverse route. But more known is the big hole / window in the mountain and most of the visitors climb just to this arch. Up to there it is easy scrambling on horizontal ledges, but requires to be free from giddiness. The northern summit has climbing passages up to UIAA 3.

Getting There

From either Porto or Corte (Francardo) aim for Col verghio, the highest street pass on Corsica. Approx. 1h driving on winding roads. Park at the "Fer a Cheval" (1329m), a prominent switchback on the east side of the Col, about 2km below the pass.

Route

Follow the blue-marked route to Bergerie Radule and join the red-white GR20 after ten minutes. From the Bergerie the bridge across the Golo (Corsicas longest river) is reached within halb an hour altogether. Here turn left/upwards into the Valley (signposted) and follow the well-marked trail up to the Refuge Ciottoli di i mori (3h altogether).
Hike another 20 minutes in northern direction to Col de Maures (2155m). Here keep left and stay on the Golo side. Traces and cairns guide you southwards ascending into the east flank of Capu Tafunatu.
Follow a exposed, but easy ledge up to some white stones (very striking as the conglomerat rock in the surrounding is red!). Here short scramble upwards to the second ledge, which is persued in opposite direction i.e. northwards. A short intersection would require kreeping along the ledge, but can be avoided by means of a deviation above. This ledge directly reaches for the big arch (Trou de Tafunatu), 1h from the hut.
To attac the summit, follow the ledge straight on, traversing the window but staying on the Golo side. (This is quite obvious, as the Fango side drops steepls for 2000m...) 
The ledge then becomes more difficult and has a short (less than one meter) interruption. Finally, the north ridge of the peak is reached and through a short chimney (crux, UIAA III) one can scale the northern peak (2335m).

Red Tape

Parc Naturel rules, nothing special.

When to Climb

The face and the ledges should be free from snow and ice to maintain it as an easy scramble (trou) or climb (summit) resp. That is, in between June and perhaps November I would say.
As the route starts at 1300m elevation, heat is not such an issue (considering summer temperatures in Corsica...).

Camping

CPs at Lozzi, Calacuccia.
Gites in Albertacce, Evisa and near to the Col (also on GR20).
Overnight possible in the GR 20 hut "Ciottoli di i mori" (reservation mandatory in season) and also next to the Bergerie Radule (tents).
Round trip is quite doable in one (long) day from Col Verghio, but if your stay is at the coastline you habve to take some 3-4h driving into account! So either start very early (esp. in summer / main season), or spent one night at the hut or the bergerie.

External Links

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