Crocodile Rock, 5.10a-5.10d

Overview/Approach

Crocodile Rock is a remote wall with a bushwhack approach gully located between Bond Boulders and Bird Beak (on the Bond Boulders side of the valley) in the Pinto Wye area.  There is little motivation to hit this area outside of being obsessed with climbing every route in the park.  Miramontes’ 3^rd edition guide still only included four climbs in this area of north facing walls, but there are more.

I Get by With a Little Help from my Friends, 5.10a**, is sandbagged for the grade.  It is also a bit chossy.  Despite being a Joe Cocker fan, Not sure about the double star recommendation.  It starts on a steep flake that must be mantled (crux) and then follows the wide (C4#4) crack above.  There is a chossy flake inside the crack making gear placement selective.  Stays physical and steep to a ledge with gear anchor options.  B-Movie, 5.10b*, is a much better and cleaner route.  Its crux is at the start as well, slightly overhanging fingers.   Ends up on the same ledge.  Claim Jumper, 5.10d*, is a mixed climb that has bad hardware as of 2019.  Heavy Gold, 5.10a, is on the right side of the descent gully on the next wall over.  Although also a bit chossy, it offers up a unique and fun trad lead at the grade.

Park at one of two locations:  either at a small side pullout off of Park Blvd just south of the Cottonwood road junction or at Split Rocks trail head.  From Park Blvd, hike northwest across open desert and eventually gain a significant wash that cuts around the north side of a hill in front of you.  Stay in the wash straight at a Y (right) and continue around the hill.  On the other side of the hill, and through a brief slot in the wash, you will have full visual (photo) of the “Bird Beak” rock formation straight ahead. Continue in the wash and look to access a vegetated gully on the left of the wash and to the right of Vector Rock.  Any approach you choose will be filled with boulders and vegetation.  If you pick the right one, it spits you out at Crocodile Rock.  I Get by With a Little Help from my Friends is the obvious roof-flake pull to wide crack on the left.  B-Movie is the obvious (only) splitter to the right.  From Split Rock, there will be a lot of hiking up and down in ravines to reach this same area.  I advise the Park Blvd approach.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face this North Facing Wall

I Get by with a Little Help from my Friends- 70’-5.10a**/A sandbagged, at the grade, and chossy route.  Given two stars in one of the local guides, I would not give it any recommendation.  Start up the right facing chossy flake, counting mostly on #3’s.  Mantle up to another flake at the top.  Follow the wide crack left to chossy #4’s.  You are faced with a chossy flake located in the large crack making your first placement or two suspect.  Continue up the mostly #4 steep crack to the top.  Medium to small gear belay.  Scramble down the gully climbers right at the right end of the wall.  Single to #4.  Could take as many as three #3’s and four #4’s if you wanted to sew it up safely.  Dow

B-Movie- 60’-5.10b*/ The best route of the group.  Much better rock than the two 5.10a’s.  Solid pro as well.  Climb the finger and tight hands up the off-set corner.  When it widens above, it offers much easier climbing up and left to the top.  #4’s build the best gear anchor.  Scramble down climbers right.  Dow

Claim Jumper- 60’-5.10d*/ (bad bolts as of 2019)

Heavy Gold- 50’-5.10a/ Fun route, rock is a bit chossy. Located to the right of the descent gully.  Scramble up to the red colored left facing corner.  This is a fingers to tips closed corner with several gear opportunity pockets.  Micro gear to #3.  Opens up to hands on the final pull atop the corner.  Medium gear belay.  Climb down climbers left or scramble down climbers right.  Dow