Echo Cove Back Side, 5.6-5.10a

Overview/Approach

This small wall is isolated on its own between the main Echo Cove corridor and the ultra-popular Touch and Go route (wall).  It is well shaded and the two western routes are well hidden.  Although these routes (4) rarely get noticed, all four are recommended climbs. It is named “back side” because it is the back side of the long, south facing, Echo Cove wall which is quite popular.  The Echo Cove south wall formation has three sections:  the front, south facing wall, which is part of Echo Cove proper, the west end, named Echo Cove Far Left in the local guide, and this somewhat insignificant “back side” destination.

D.E. Chimney, 5.6*, and Snatch, 5.10a*, are two obvious trad routes at the left end.  D.E. Chimney is a secure chimney solo and Snatch is a good finger to fist splitter through a small overhang.  They both end up at the same place and require you to scramble up a short corner on the right to descend the gully to the far right.  There are zero bolts or fixed anchors on either route.  Inhaler, 5.8*, and Jughead, 5.10a*, on the other hand are at the far-right side of the same wall and are both fully bolted face climbs with a fixed rap atop Inhaler.  The 5.10a move on Jughead is a physical arm stem between jugs after the first clip, but otherwise both routes are similar in terms of jug climbing.  Jughead has just three bolts and might be considered run out near the top, but at a lesser grade.  You can sling knobs to make it less run out if you are not competent at the grade.  Inhaler is well bolted with the exception of the easy crack start to a ramp.  All four routes descend the gully at the west end of the wall or rap Inhaler.

Park at the large Echo Cove parking area with a restroom.  Hike towards Echo Rock’s massive south face and turn left into the corridor directly behind Touch and Go.  These routes face north and receive good shade for most of the day. 

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face this North Facing Wall

DE Chimney- 80’-5.6*/ From a solo perspective, this route is twice as tall as the guide suggests.  Relatively secure solo on the far-left side of the wall.  The crux is the first few meters needed to access the chimney.  Continue up a short corner on your right and walk off climbers right.  Dow

Snatch- 50’- 5.10a*/ One of the more underrated 5.10a trad climbs in the park.  Great start through fingers which increase to #4 near the top.  The crack steepens as it goes (unusual in Jtree), but eases off as it gets higher as well.  Fun jug-like exposed feeling (well protected) moves on varnished jugs near the top.  Med to small gear belay, can be extended for top rope.  Single to #4.  Dow

Inhaler- 60’- 5.8*/ Climb up either a left crack or right crack leading to a ramp.  Traverse right and climb the well bolted large patina jugs above to a fixed rap.  Optional gear lower down, but closely bolted at the grade.   Dow

Jughead- 70’-5.10a*/ Aptly named steep jug infested route.  Three bolts in the middle.  All I used, but you can sling a horn up high as well.  Real fun sport climb.  The crux move is stem mantling up knobs after the first clip, unusual move.  Then fun steep jugs to the top.   Single bolt belay backed up by gear.  Easy to top rope.  Dow