The easiest route to the East Dome
from the east-south side, but long and complex enough for its grade. Grandiose through cave at the upper wall gives to the route his impressive name. But before you can pass through a huge eye you must ascend a south facing Hammad's ridge(to this point the route goes together with Hammad's Route
), to find the way to the Great Siq and only then to climb a technical part. After the cave pass you get access to slabs and reach the summit through sandy corridors with few pitches of climbing. Constantly varying scenery and different rock formations will follow you all the route. Very good choice to get know both the area and descent way from The North Plateau
. Good rock and protection except one place at the bottom of Great Siq.
First climbed by Bedouin, and first recorded ascend - M.Shaw,A.Baker,A.Howard,D.Taylor 9th October 1984.
Eye of Allah scheme
From the south-west end of the village go west to the base of a long ridge which goes up north in the direction of the East Dome. Walk upstairs and by well equiped footpath go around the ridge. Immediately after a spring at the right side you will find narrow entrance into hidden gully. Follow it and scramble up the boulders slope to the head of the gully(approximately 20-30 minutes). At the right wall you will see the inclined shelf - start of the route.
From the head of the boulders slope scramble up an easy shelf at the right wall(3) and pass below a huge blocks to the shoulder(cairn). The first pitch is a obvious crack which goes to the left.
1st pitch 5-/45m: Follow the crack(one 5- move). There are two bolts in its top part, after them turn right and by slab(4) traverce to the top of Hammad's ridge.
Follow the cairn on the ridge about 150m in west direction. Here the Eye of Allah separates from Hammad's route
and turns to the right. You must find a very narrow chimney(3) which goes down to the bottom of the Great Siq which all road on a ridge was to the right of you. After descent immediately turn right and go to the "sand-glass"(sling). To pass over a deep chimney(3) and overcoming some more cracks to continue at the lefthand side of the Great Siq. Go down to the real bottom and search the slab cracked in the middle(also you will see sling to the right of a crack). Climb this slab(5-) to a big pedestal from which technical part begins.
1st pitch from pedestal(2nd pitch in description)
2nd pitch 5-/45m: In the right side of the pillar climb wide crack. Behind the second excess turn left to a convenient shelf.
3rd pitch 5-/30m: Simple overhang in the start a then climb straight on pillar or nearby at the internal corner.
4th pitch 4+/45m: Enjoyable climbing on black slab. Turn left to the chimney for belay.
5th pitch 4/40m: Climb under a hat of the big mushroom, traverce to the right to an entrance in right side of the Eye of Allah cave.
Follow the right corner and pass through the Cave then turn left and scramble easy slab(3) approximately 60 meters. Traverse(4+) over the chimney, descent to sandy corridor and turn right. Follow a right wall and through internal chimney go up until you'll see the wall that required climbing.
6th pitch 5-/20m: Climb the right wall and go up the slab.
Turn left & by steep slab rise up to the summit.
Descent by the route. 4 well equiped abseils to the Great Siq. Join the Hammad's route
at the ridge - 2 abseils to the gully. About two hours.
Standart set of trad gear. Ropes 2x50, cams, nuts, tricams & many slings!