If you have seen twitching people on the middle of East Face(East Dome
), most likely they climb on Goldfinger. One of the most popullar short routes in Wadi Rum goes up the top of the central column rested against third of height of a wall. Brilliant 3rd pitch brings to route his name - Goldfinger! First climbed by W.Collona & G.Claye 23rd October 1986
brilliant 3rd pitch
15 minutes from rest house
From the Rest House to go by the road up to ruins, to pass through them and to turn to the left. Through boulders on a wagging footpath to approach to a wall foot 50 metres to the right of a Mumkin's
wide chimney. From here on a diagonal to the right to scramble about 50 metres on easy rocks(1st pitch 2+/3
) to a horizontal white belt.
2nd pitch 4/50m
: from big shelf on the white belt to climb right by little chimney, then to go left and again to right in internal corner. Traverse right to the Y crack. The right small one crack at the face of column - Goldfinger.
3rd pitch 5c+/35m
: the second pitch is obvious enough. The thin crack deduces on slab and comes to an end with a shelf. Exposed but very enjoyable climbing!
4th pitch 5/35m
: leaves an arch to the left and on the middle changes a direction climbing up column top.
second pitch below the route
Standard set of trad gear: 2x50m ropes, set of nuts, small cams.
A few meters below the top at the left(head to the wall) you'll find bolts. Three well equiped abseils and short descent an easy rocks and you on the foot.