Frontier Wall, 5.9-5.11c

Overview/Approach

Frontier Wall will no doubt be one of the last places you visit if trying to climb out Joshua Tree National Park via routes within your grade.  It has a clean, but short, splitter that yields a recommendation in Miramontes guide named Glad Handler, 5.9**.  Just to the right of Gland Handler is a route that received no love from the guide but in my opinion is even better than Glad Handler, Gnatty Dread, 5.9***.  Another moderate that shares the same rope-up area as Gnatty is Kiss Me Where I Pee, 5.10a.    These moderate routes are located at the east end of the formation.  There is zero fixed hardware on top of the formation.  In fact, the only bolts I laid eyes on were some manky ones on a route named Man from Glad. 

A good solid 5.10- day out is to hike to Frontier and Kachina Walls and complete five routes, Kachina, 5.10a**, Steppin Out, 5.10a*, The Right Stuff, 5.10b**, Glad Handler, 5.9** and Gnatty Dread, 5.9***.  There is not a bolt to be found on any of these routes and all offer sustained and interesting climbing at the grade.  Frontier is listed in the local Miramontes guide where Kachina is not.  Kachina walls are published on MP.com. 

Park at the dead-end trailhead as you would for Queen Mountain.  Follow the old road on foot until even with a collection of dark volcanic boulders piled high on the left.  Aim through the easy to travel desert for the saddle to the northwest.  In short order you will pick up a climber’s trail heading up the right side of the wash to the saddle.  Once on top of the saddle, the views and grounds are spectacular, reminiscent of Wonderland South or North without humans.  Continue in this much higher wash by hiking firm level sand until right before the wash takes a hard right.  Look for a cairned (2024) trail on your left that meanders up to yet another col.  Atop the col, hike another firm level wash as it continues north.  You pass Frontier Spire (in full view) and Frontier Wall (dark north facing rock) on your right facing north.  Continue for another 15 minutes until you can spot the two Kachina Walls to the east.  They both face west.  Hike a small wash to the base of those two walls.

Routes Listed Left to Right when Facing this North Facing Wall

Glad Handler- 60’-5.9**/ If this route were longer and closer to the road, it would be one of the finer trad routes at the grade.  At the far-left end of Frontier’s north facing wall is a wide splitter with a sharp bend in the middle.  This route is relatively secure for soloing at the grade for the competent climber.  The crux might be the start, but it is not overly difficult with plenty of hand jams where needed along with good gear.   Near the top, you can go up and right across an unprotected face or slide left around the corner and finish in a flaring chimney (more secure if soloing).  The local guide lists this route at 40’ but it is longer to go to the top.  On top of the wall, you can sling a boulder with a 240cm sling and place a #.5 for a TR.  Descend west and in short order enter a chimney on your left and 5^th class it down to boulders on the backside to return to the base of the wall by heading back north and east.  Single from #.5 to #4.  Route gets shade most all day.  Dow

Man From Glad- 5.10d/

Land of Wonder- 5.10c/

Gnatty Dread- 80’-5.9***/ This is an excellent route at the grade in Jtree.  It offers a ton of variety at the grade.  Start out with fingers and stemming up what appears to be a chossy corner that does not climb as bad as it looks.  Head for the roof and pull it on its left side.  The pull is positive and “hero” like. Continue up the wide crack ramp to the top.  Sling a large chicken head and place a #4 in the floor for a TR.  The descent is the same as for the Glad Handler.  Single from micro to #4.  Route gets shade most all day.  Dow

Kiss Me Where I Pee- 80’-5.10aPG/ This route is called 5.9 in the local guide, but 5.10a by the FAers.  It's start is not trivial on lead.  Traverse in from the left over chossy stone with no “reliable” pro to eventually get a bomber piece in the left facing corner.  Bad rock with limited to no pro to start.  From there you can place all the gear you want.  Follow the lower angled corner that you manteled up to, to a shorter and steeper section that offers good climbing.  Finish on yet another short corner to the same gear belay as for Gnatty Dread.  Single from micro to #4.  Route gest shade most all day.  Dow

Gordoba- 5.10d/

Rites of Passage- 5.11a*/

Snake Bite- 5.11c/

Meatlocker- 5.11b*/

Forbidden Zone- 5.11b/

Conundrum- 5.11c/