The Hound's Tooth is one of the first spires that Bugaboo climbers see from the trail head, but it is rarely climbed. The rock is poor quality compared to the rest of the Bugaboo spires, and the approach is dangerous and arduous. Thus, most climbers head for the other spires. The Hounds' Tooth is composed of a coarse, fractured granite. The Marmalota/Hound's Tooth massive was first climbed by Kain et all in 1930.
Hound's Tooth can be reached by traversing directly across the icefall of the Bugaboo Glacier from the Kain Hut, but this is a very dangerous and time-consuming endeavor. A better approach is to climb the moraine until you are above the icefall, traverse the upper glacier and then descend along the base of the Marmalota and the Hound's Tooth. Rock fall is a real danger along the base of the Hound's Tooth!
There are only three documented routes on the Hound's Tooth: -Northwest Face (class 4) -North Face Variation (III, 5.6) -Northeast Side The standard Northwest Face route ascends the snowfield and rocky ridge on the northwest face. The alpinist with a penchant for loose rock, however, will prefer the North Face (5.6) variation that climbs the shattered north face and the prominent summit snowfield. This snowfield becomes a fine ice climb certain times of the year. If you know of any other routes on the Hound's Tooth, please add them or contact me.
Most climbers prefer to stay at the Kain Hut. However it is possible to camp high on the upper glacier.
If you would like to adopt this page, or have additions/corrections, please feel free to contact me.