Little Rock Candy Mountain, 5.7-5.12a

Little Rock Candy Mountain, 5.7-5.12a

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 34.02515°N / 116.14978°W
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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Dow leading Sugar Daddy, 5.9*
Dow leading Sugar Daddy, 5.9*

Little Rock Candy Mountain has two distinct climbing faces. An evening sun exposed wall, the southwest side; and a morning sun exposed wall, the northeast side. A good moderate route on the northeast side is M&M’s Plain (5.9) (John Lakey-1978). Although a bit soft for the grade by Joshua Tree standards, M&M’s Plain offers up a fun hands/finger crack. Every route on these two faces gets at least one star in Miramontes’ guide book. The bolt anchor atop M&M’s Plain can get you down from any route you climb. This entire area is known as the Candy Bar and encompasses several significant formations. The Snickers and Little Hunk involve much larger walls than Little Rock Candy Mountain which sticks out on the southeast edge of Snickers.  

Park at the paved parking area at the Echo Rock trail head. Head north on a well marked trail circumventing Pope’s Crack to the right. Eff Eight is on a singular mound of granite straight north. Turn right before you reach the Mounds and follow a trail east turning north following the rock. Then cut back west up to the base of the northeast wall (photo). 15-20 minutes from parking.

Route Description(s)

Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the NE Wall

  • M&M’s Peanut- 5.10a/
  • M&M’s Plain- 5.9*/ A bit soft for a Jtree 5.9, but fun and worthy route. Dow
  • Little Rock Candy Crack- 5.7*/ A secure solo up intermittent (“Z” shaped) cracks except for the very finish which has one slab move. The crux is probably off the deck, a mantle at the grade. Rap M&Ms. Dow
  • McStumpy Sandwich- 5.9*/Although not given an R rating in the guide, it is run out from the bolt up, but worth doing for the competent leader at the grade. Start with a fun move off the deck. Get in a horizontal, then mantle again and clip the bolt. Face climb via side pulls back and forth and get in a shallow off set wire or cam, then finish on larger holds. Small to medium gear belay, not worth trying to extend for top rope, just bring up the 2nd and rap M&M’s. Dow 
Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the SW Wall
  • Barely Legal- 5.12a/**
  • Sugar Daddy- 50’-5.9*/ Best climb on Little Rock Candy Mountain.  Left facing corner on the southwest corner under a roof, can get sun late morning.  Great climbing at the grade on great varnished rock.  Crux is the thin crack in the corner which leads to a juggy roof traverse right to a hand crack to finish.  Fixed rap out left on the next route left, easy to set up a top rope on this station.  Dow
  • Nestle’s Crunch- 5.10c/*
  • Lips Like Sugar- 5.10b*/
  • Chick Flakey- 5.11b*/