Little Rock Candy Mountain, 5.7-5.12a

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California, United States, North America
Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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Little Rock Candy Mountain, 5.7-5.12a
Created On: Apr 2, 2012
Last Edited On: Feb 28, 2013


Joshua Tree

Little Rock Candy Mountain has two distinct climbing faces. An evening sun exposed wall, the southwest side; and a morning sun exposed wall, the northeast side. A good moderate route on the northeast side is M&M’s Plain (5.9) (John Lakey-1978). Although a bit soft for the grade by Joshua Tree standards, M&M’s Plain offers up a fun hands/finger crack. Every route on these two faces gets at least one star in Miramontes’ guide book. The bolt anchor atop M&M’s Plain can get you down from any route you climb. This entire area is known as the Candy Bar and encompasses several significant formations. The Snickers and Little Hunk involve much larger walls than Little Rock Candy Mountain which sticks out on the southeast edge of Snickers.
Little Rock Candy Mountain

Park at the paved parking area at the Echo Rock trail head. Head north on a well marked trail circumventing Pope’s Crack to the right. Eff Eight is on a singular mound of granite straight north. Turn right before you reach the Mounds and follow a trail east turning north following the rock. Then cut back west up to the base of the northeast wall (photo). 15-20 minutes from parking.

Route Description(s)

Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the NE Wall

  • M&M’s Peanut- 5.10a/

  • M&M’s Plain- 5.9/*
  • A bit soft for a Jtree 5.9, but fun and worthy route. Dow

  • Little Rock Candy Crack- 5.7/*

  • McStumpy Sandwich- 5.9/*

  • Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the SW Wall

  • Barely Legal- 5.12a/**

  • Sugar Daddy- 5.9/*

  • Nestle’s Crunch- 5.10c/*

  • Lips Like Sugar- 5.10b/*

  • Chick Flakey- 5.11b/*
  • External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites