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Gear Review



Page Type: Gear Review

Object Title: ATC-XP

Manufacturer: Black Diamond

Your Opinion: 
 - 18 Votes


Page By: NYC007

Created/Edited: Feb 3, 2003 / Feb 3, 2003

Object ID: 654

Hits: 4398 


Give yourself ultimate control over any rappel or belay with this truly variable friction device.

Variable friction design gives greater control over a multiple of rope diameters
Use HFM (high friction mode) for thin ropes, wet conditions or rapping with a heavy haul bag
Use LFM (low friction mode) when rapping with a fuzzy 11mm rope or speed rapping in your camo
Die-cast 380 aluminum is 44% heavier and 20% harder than the original ATC for even more durability
Versatile double-slot design allows you to feed single or double ropes smoothly, yet hold falls with ease: won't kink the rope
89 grams


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NYC007Untitled Review

Voted 4/5

works alot better then the original ATC. its smoother, better friction. I have used it from single ropes to twin ropes and on rappelling and it is a step up from the last. Even rapping on 2 8.5's if had good friction unlike some others, and thats when most people have problems..
Posted Feb 21, 2003 10:05 am

vannibellUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

A tad more expensive than a regular belay device, but it was a birthday present in my case. It works much better than a regular ATC. If you are going to buy a belay device buy this one.
Posted Aug 29, 2003 11:24 pm

dennyheadUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

I have a second job doing tree service and use the ATC-XP on limb work. I am very happy with it. It has good friction which is a big plus in this line of work because customers forget to tell you what limbs to take down on the way up and with a device like this that holds you on the way down, it makes life a lot easier.

Main pluses are its simple to use and quick to set up and pretty much idiot proof.
Posted Nov 21, 2003 12:28 pm

MishaUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

The best belaying device on the market!

Gotta love the HFM side for easy breaking and skinnier ropes. Takes a bit of time to get used to it after using a regular ATC, but once you understand all its features, you won't want anything else.
Posted Dec 14, 2003 5:54 pm

sshankleUntitled Review

Voted 4/5

Good all around device, but the reverso is better.

This one is a step up in functionality and complexity from the ATC.
Posted Jan 4, 2004 6:43 pm

Erik BeelerUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

Much like everyone else I love this belay tool. I have not much extra to add except that if you are using thin ropes this is the one to go with. I have rapelled and belayed with this tool on 8.1 mm Ice Lines and it has worked well even in sub zero F temps.

This is the tool to go with. You can use it both on the non "V" side for the standard ATC feel or switch over to the "V" side for that added extra bit of security. I won't let anyone belay me on my Ice Lines unless they are using one of these.

This tool is also good for beginers as it has an extra firm catch making it easier for newbies to feel confident they can catch a leader w/o resorting to using a tool like the Grigri.

Get this device.
Posted Jan 5, 2004 9:41 am

The Defiant OneUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

As with everyone else, i adore this device. It's worth the extra $ to buy this over the ATC, and really, the gri-gri is only used in gyms and top-ropes and "car-climbing". If you put a belay/rappel device in your pack, make sure it's this one. The control is excellent and i haven't had problems with heat on long rappels but i think others have mentioned that. what do you expect. This is versatile, light, solid and well designed.
Posted Mar 28, 2005 8:32 pm

WaTarooUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

Very sturdy and reliable rappel device. I have used it from single 11 mm rope to double 7 mm ropes and depending on the diameter of the rope you just switch sides for maximum control. It does not damage the rope and the finishing of this apparatus is just marvelous, no sharp edges whatsoever. The steel holding eye will keep it always with you so losing it will be difficult except when you drop it.
Posted Jul 27, 2005 6:43 am

ladUntitled Review

Voted 4/5

This is an excellent piece of gear, once you understand how to insert the rope(s), and flip/attach to your locker biner of choice - to best use its features. Example: Use the V teethy side of the device for thinner ropes or free (hanging in space) rappels for more friction. Use the non V side for larger diameter ropes or where too much friction is unwanted or isn't neccesary.

I also like the longer leash - this is great for those times where I want to lock the rope off, while on belay, by wrapping up a mule/overhand (to go hands free when neccesary or desired).

I suppose the soft gel inserts will help mitigate those times where I accidentally touch the piece when its really too hot to touch - if you know what I mean.

Posted Sep 29, 2005 3:43 pm

travisgollaherUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

This is a good step up from the orignal ATC, because if the ability to hold the lead a little easer. I find that it is as good as it get's. Quick feeding, controled rapping and versital enough for twin or single rope belays. high quality.
Posted Oct 26, 2005 6:46 pm

horalkaUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

I got this belaying device for our 10mm rope (regular ATC seemed too open with not that much friction). I like it because it makes me feel that I can hold the lead more secure especially with some one who is 70 more lb than me (I weigh 105). I use the low friction side to belay top rope even though the rope moves smoothly through on either side. The only little thing I don’t like is after taking a leader on rest the rope kind of sticks in the grove and locks. So it needs to be pushed through back a little before giving the rope out. But it works really well and the rappels are also very smooth.
Posted Jan 23, 2006 11:59 am

neodaygreat all around device

Voted 4/5

works with fat and skinny ropes. much better than the reverso. The only one better? the ATC-XP Guide.
Posted Jan 24, 2007 6:56 pm

Augie MedinaCanyoneering Use

Voted 5/5

Works well with the skinnier canyoneering ropes. The improvement in performance over the regular ATC, i.e., its much greater versatility in terms of adjusting friction, is much more significant than the increased cost (just a few bucks difference really). A superb device.
Posted Sep 5, 2007 7:07 pm

AltitudeSicknessNice update

Voted 4/5

The ATC-XP is a great update from the original device. The friction ridges are great and make it easy to make adjustments to friction. I have used it with all sizes of ropes. It cannot take anything over 11.5
Posted Jan 3, 2008 5:40 pm

stephoworks well

Voted 5/5

Every so often I use one of these for belaying, I like the choice between high friction and low friction, something my normal atc does not provide
Posted Jul 14, 2010 7:22 pm

ytimkWorks well

Hasn't voted

So far so good. I very much like the option of going high friction or low friction.
Posted Oct 14, 2010 10:01 am

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