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Gear Review



Page Type: Gear Review

Object Title: SBG II

Manufacturer: Omega Pacific

Your Opinion: 
 - 4 Votes


Page By: hueco001

Created/Edited: Nov 7, 2002 / Nov 7, 2002

Object ID: 545

Hits: 3217 


By incorporating a rigid stem on this device,climbers can go from full lock-off to whipping rope out in a single, smooth action, no more binding up as the device tries to free itself! And the amount of friction can be completelyadjusted to suit your particular need. Does your climber outweigh you? Are you using skinny ropes? Then set up the brake line through the V-Slots! Clipping in short (into the oblong hole in the center of the stem) adds even more braking power.

Climbing with fat ropes, a skinny partner or on low-angle slabs? Then belay off the U-Grooves for less friction and clip into the bottom hole of the SBGII! And if you've ever rapped on a single 8mm or 9mm ropes with a traditional belay device, you know what a fast and loose ride that can be! With the SBGII, wrap that skinny cord around the rigid stem and rappel figure-8 style for the ultimate in control and safety


Viewing: 1-3 of 3

hueco001Untitled Review

Voted 5/5

I use this thing at the ropes course I work at. Believe me, when you have a 300 lbs. slobbering bull wetting himself because he's never been more than eight feet off of the ground, you want something with a little more "umph" to it than an ATC. ATC's are great and I use to use them exclusively; after dealing with the rope burn and comparatively poor lock-off performance, not to mention the jerky lowering method I had to use on the aforementioned bull, I'll never go back. We just bought three SBG's to replace our ATC's last week, so I guess that says something. Belaying through the v's is the easiest thing in the world, and if you want to increase the friction, just clip in short and wrap the rope around the stem.

The only real gripe I have is that if you do clip in short and actually need all of that friction, you sacrifice most of your rope-feeding ability. Short-rope city, woo-hah.
Posted Nov 7, 2002 8:48 am

cascadeclimber1978Untitled Review

Voted 5/5

This is by far the best rope controller I have ever used. It is so smooth and gives you many options for amount of friction you want to apply. The Deep "V" cuts allow you to apply friction very easy. Very lightweight. Plus you can also use it as a figure 8 as well. I climb with this device exclusivly now.
Posted Nov 17, 2004 5:41 pm

tpTHe best belay device ever

Voted 5/5

This device is simple and works great. The high and low friction sides give superior rope control and the solid stem keeps the device from binding the rope on the biner like what happens with an ATC. My advice would be to buy this device and use it as a primary belay device.

Posted Feb 14, 2008 7:39 pm

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