Verglas Ultra Dry


Verglas Ultra Dry
Page Type Gear Review
Object Title Verglas Ultra Dry
Manufacturer PMI
Page By Alan Ellis
Page Type Sep 11, 2003 / Jan 20, 2007
Object ID 808
Hits 5570
The lightest in its class, this rope excels on hard ice routes or alpine climbs and doesn't weigh you down on long approaches

The Verglas is labeled a half rope, but may also be used as a twin. This rope, like the 8.6mm, is only offered with our dry treated finish in 60 or 70 meter lengths.

Colors: Orange Mix/Blue Mix

In a twin rope system, the lead climber ties into the two ropes and clips both ropes into the same piece of protection while leading. Advantages are: Ropes are lighter for long approaches and "fast and light" style. The second climber doesn't have to carry or drag a rope. And the climbing team gets to utilize 200 ft. rappels. For routes requiring short pitches or short rappels, the team can cut weight even more by carrying only one twin rope, then doubling the one rope to use as a twin rope system. In a half-rope system, the lead climber ties into both ropes, but clips each rope into different pieces of protection. This is advantageous for wandering routes, helps prevent rope drag, and can protect a second during traverses.



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Alan Ellis - Sep 11, 2003 8:56 am - Voted 5/5

Untitled Review
For those needing an alpine rope system, twin ropes are the way to go. One of these ropes only weights 5 lb, 5 oz. Compared to a standard 10.something rope, you can shave POUNDS off your approach load and they pack very small compared to a bigger rope. The rope colors are very contrasting and they are pre-marked in the middle. I highly recommend a twin rope system for the mountains.

Tsuyoshi - Mar 7, 2009 2:26 am - Voted 4/5

super light!
these ropes are super light which my back loves after a 1.5 day approach. Dry treatment is excellent allowing the rope to stay dry, not freeze and keep light.

the durability of these ropes is another story. unless you are only going to be climbing ice, get an 8.5 mm. the extra weight will be worth it when it lasts more than one season. but if you are ok with putting out the cash to buy tons of these guys over the years, you can't beat them.

I find this rope is best for purely ice and snow. But I seems to grab this first for long mid 5th class climbs where simulclimbing is key. Double the rope and it works great for moderate rock!

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