THE PSYCHO" Be Assured; Its Longer Than it Looks !!!
Take the NorthEast Buttress Approach and keep on until you reach the NorthEast corner The route is inbetween No Kiss For Dog Lips and Four Play.
THE PSYCHO. All You Need is Good Smears and A Lot of Imagination !!
This Amazing Route was first done in 1984 by Daniel Rosen, Todd Skinner and Beth Wald. It was first graded 5.11a, but subsequent ascents have found the 5.11b grade to be much more descriptive. Clearly a 3-Star route, this climb is demanding on both technique and endurance.
Pitch 1. ( 55 ft., 5.7). Climb up and left a bit to a bulge. Work around it to a 2-Big Bolt anchor and a hanging / leaning belay.
Pitch 2. ( 160 ft., 5.11b) Stem this corner to the anchor bolts by a ledge, above. This pitch is thin, technical and strenuous. Dial in an "enduro-factor" on your calves and your head and you got yourself one heck of a rope length. There are two bolts in the middle of the pitch. Some find them unneccessary. I find them quite welcome. Low on the pitch, protection is readily available but only if you have many,many RP's and small (#1-#3) stoppers. Higher, the cracks widen and protection can be placed in both cracks.Although this is not as wide a stem as El Matador, it is much harder. When you crank this one , you are well on your way to becoming a Tower Stem Master.
Finish. Most rap out. If you wish to continue to the top, choose between the unappealing chimnies of Four Play or North West Corner. Beware of Loose rock.........
Don't Even Worry About the Jams; There Aren't Any !!!
Many, Many RP's, small nuts (#1-#3), also medium nuts and TCU's up to a #1 Friend size. Take a couple long runners, as protection can go in both cracks.
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