New Wave

Page Type
Route
Location:
Wyoming, United States, North America
Route Type:
Rock-Classic Crack
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5.10a

Route Quality: 21 Votes

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Created On: Apr 5, 2001
Last Edited On: Apr 5, 2001

Approach


Take the Northeast Buttress Approach. This route starts under Teacher's Lounge Ledge at the same point that Broken Tree route starts.

Route Description


This route was first climbed by the visionary Dennis Horning and Dave Larson in 1982. It is a Classic, well protected crack climb, with a face climb crux section that is well protected by a Big Bolt.!!!

Pitch 1. (100ft., 5.7) Start at the base of Broken Tree and work up two cracks to the left. This is the crack that you will stay in. Climb this slabby crack to a fine belay ledge on the right, with a 2 bolt anchor. The 5.7 crux is near the top and is protected by small wires.

Pitch 2. ( 150 ft., 5.10a) Continue up the, now, finger and hand crack until the crack pinches out for a short section and flakes and edges take you leftwards to a stance and a Big Bolt. Clip the Bolt and do the well protected face moves (crux) that take you back into the crack. Continue up the crack to the large Teachers Lounge Ledge belay with a 2 Big Bolt anchor. A Lovely ,Lovely pitch!!!!

Finish. You can take several different routes to the top from Teachers Lounge, but Assembly Line is the finest choice(Classic 5.9). Or you can rappel the route and try Broken Tree

Essential Gear


Standard rack; from small stoppers to #3 Friends

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.