Rat Race

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Page By:
Rat Race
Created On: Jan 15, 2007
Last Edited On: Apr 16, 2007

Overview

Rat Race is the most notable climb on the Tourist Trap; the first 'crag' on the Pinnacles East Side. If people are climbing at the Tourist Trap, hikers usually pause to watch.

Rat Race follows the left facing corner to the predominant five foot roof. When you stand at the base of the route and look at the roof, you wonder how the route can only be a 5.7. However, the roof is also what makes the route memorable.


Rat Race


Rat RacePeter Leading
Rat RacePeter at the Roof
Rat RacePeter Belaying Kim


Spring or Fall are generally the best seasons to climb at the Pinnacles. However, Tourist Trap can be a pleasant option when it is hot due to the short approach and as there is a fair amount of shade at the base.

Getting There

From the East side parking lot, start walking on the Moses Springs Trail, heading towards the reservoir. Just before the junction with the High Peaks Trail, you will see a sign indicating the access trail for the Tourist Trap is 60 feet ahead. The access is marked by another sign. Scrambling across the boulders brings you to the Tourist Trap and the base of Rat Race.

Please note the party size limits on the sign. Also, the area below the Tourist Trap is closed to prevent erosion.

Climber s Access SignAccess Sign

Route Description

Rat race is one of the few crack climbs at the Pinnacles. Climb the face below the roof, placing gear in the crack until you are below the roof. There is a positive hold just over the roof that allows you to climb past the crux. Once you are over the roof, continue climbing to the anchors.

Rat RaceKim finds the hold
Rat RaceKim bypassing the roof
Rat RaceAlmost Past the Crux


Essential Gear

Gear to 4 inches is needed to protect the roof. You will want to use long slings when placing gear near the roof. Rubine's guide mentions tying off a block on top as a belay. However, there are anchor bolts and chains at the top of the route.

You can rappel off with a single rope. Rubine's guide mentions a walk off trail, that will take you back to the high Peaks Trail. I don't recommend it.

Other Routes on Tourist Trap

Other routes on Tourist Trap include:

Angstrom's away, 5.10a
Thrill Hammer, 5.8+
Pastie, 5.7
Nipple Jam, 5.8