Reptilian Wall Right, 5.10-5.12

Overview/Approach

Reptilian Walls (Right and Left) are located in the heart of Long’s Canyon and is one of the better winter craggin’ destinations near Moab.  Maverik Buttress is where 95% of the climbers in the canyon head for a shorter approach and easier climbs, but Reptilian has the best overall collection of 5.10+/5.11 routes in the Canyon.  It is a typical Indian Creek type southwest facing wall with many splitters and corners from 5.10 to 5.12.  Reptilian Wall Right has more routes than Reptilian Wall Left and is spread out more.  The two walls are separated by a middle wall yet to be developed (2024).  There are two gullies that border this middle wall.  From the approach trail, you will be heading towards the La Sals’ on the lower bench for the right wall routes.  For the most part, you can meander a climbers trail below the right wall as it circumvents to the south.  The routes are spread out as is typical in Long Canyon vs Indian Creek. 

Stealth Belly, 5.10****, is one of the better moderates, climbing a corner in the center of the wall.  Shed Your Skin, 5.10+***, is an excellent finger spitter located on an arete and would be considered more of a classic if it was taller.   Wiggle, 5.10+**, will be one of the more unique single pitches you will lead at the grade anywhere.  A true shoulder jam that requires you to rack on your belay loop if you want to keep your shoulders engaged, and you will.  This is a shoulder stem box essentially and is a cool and physical lead at the grade.  Lizard’s Hex, 5.10+*, is a varied route worth climbing as it goes from hands up a flake to stemming and chimneying a wide corner whilst protecting in a finger crack. 

Just over three miles driving up Long Canyon from Potash Road, park at a sharp switchback before a steep hill to the left and hike up a lightly cairned trail to the east.  From in the main wash, locate a climbers trail that leads to a higher drainage.  Cross the drainage and continue up the climber’s trail trending south.  Eventually pop up onto the massive ledge below the Reptilian Walls.  Follow a climber’s trail south past quite a bit of petrified wood and look to head up to the base of the wall in short order.  Look for the wide pillar that forms the three Triceratops routes to orientate yourself to the wall.  A climbers trail circumvents the wall with plenty of shade opportunities in which to have lunch, rest or even belay, but most of the routes are in full afternoon sun.  

If coming down Long Canyon from Canyonlands, drive through the "hole" and past Maverik Buttress.  Drive down a steep section and park at the switchback in the wash. 

Routes Listed Left to Right on Approach

Chameleon- 5.11/

Faded Midget- 5.11/

Triceratops Left- 50’-5.10*/ Start up the soft stone to reach the left side OW of this pillar.  There is some opportunistic stemming near the end.  Single to #6.  Dow

Triceratops Middle- 50’-5.12-*/ Start on Triceratops Left traverse right to the base of the tips crack.  A meter or two at the grade and then good fingers to the top.  Shares the same rap with Left and Right.   Single from micro to #2.  Small offset cams or wires helpful.  Dow

Triceratops Right- 50’-5.10b**/ Decent climb up the right side of the pillar.  Starts with good hands to a crux wide move through the pod on suspect rock.  You soon get fists to hands to #5 to protect the mantle finish.  Shares the same fixed rap with Left and Middle Triceratops.  Single to #5.  Extra #2.  Dow

Vertical Flu- 5.10+/

Stealth Belly- 75’-5.10****/ This is one of the better if not best moderate route at Reptilian Walls.  Start up chossy rock to the base of a tight hands dihedral crack.  It is on the small size of tight hands.  There are plenty of rests on this route giving it the 5.10 flavor, but it is steep and fun between rests.  I started out with a few #.5’s.  From there #1’s are mostly the ticket, but there is plenty of other sized gear opportunities as well including a #4 when you take on an awkward pod near the top.  The most sustained strenuous portion is the middle third.  Fixed rap up and right.  Double from #.5 to #2 plus a #4.  Extra #1’s.  Dow

Lizard Lust- 5.11/

Anaconda- 5.11/

Don Iguana- 5.10+/

Shed Your Skin- 65’-5.10+***/ An excellent finger splitter on a pedestal of sorts that lands a large ledge below a fixed rap.  The only thing this route is missing is length.  Climb a few meters over some soft choss to access the variable splitter.  You can place an assortment, but #.3’s to #.5’s protect most of it well.  Off set cams are always helpful when craggin’ in the desert of course.  A micro piece protects the final awkward and crux move to the ledge.  Not being distracted about rightward options at the crux (sticking with the tips) gives the best chance of sending it on lead.  Dow

Cobra- 5.12/

Wiggle- 70’-5.10+**/ This is a unique route.  One of those that most would have a hard time giving it an accurate grade.  It is very awkward and will be much easier the smaller you are.  MP.Com has one tick and they are calling it 5.10+.  If you think Namaste in Zion is 5.12, then this route could be 5.12, particularly for broad shoulder climbers.  This is a shoulder width box that is much more of a squeeze then it appears from below.  You enter the box and early on start jamming your shoulders.  It is helpful to rack as much of your gear on the front (belay loop) of the harness as you can.   Single to #3.  Double from #.3 to #.75.  You can easily place triples in those sizes if you wanted.  The final move near the top forces your shoulders out just before a hand jam is reached.  This is the crux of the route.  The anchors are out left on the wall.  Interesting route.  Quite a bit of heavy breathing for me when I led this thing, just awkward and physical for a 5.10+, but as the local guide suggests, just too tempting to pass up.  Dow

Hidden Door- 5.11-/

Lizard’s Hex- 80’-5.10*/ Interesting route worth doing, but on the chossy side of routes even for this wall.  This route offers a lot of variable climbing.  Start out on the right side of an obvious 40’ tall pillar and climb it to the top with quite a few jams available.  This initial crack is dirty and flaky.  Make an awkward mantle at the top onto the large ledge at the top of the pillar.  Continue up into the wide slot above keeping your feet out right against the lip of a finger splitter.  You can place bomber finger pieces in the splitter out right whilst climbing the wider (easier) slot in the corner.  The whole route is sustained and physical for the grade.  A single hand jam shows up on the left wall near the end.  The fixed rap is out on the right wall.  The 2^nd half offers interesting climbing and is definitely the crux.  Single to #4.  Doubles from #.2 to #.5’s.  Dow