Rock Candy

Approach

From the west gate of the park take Park Blvd. to Lost Horse Rd. and turn right. Drive .3 miles to a dirt parking area on the left. You'll see two canyon systems divided by the usual jumble of rocks. Follow a trail toward the right canyon, the right side of which is Shorter Wall, which in turn is divided into Lower Shorter (closer to the road) and Upper Shorter (deeper in the canyon). Pretty soon the trail ends and you'll have to boulder hop for 10 to 15 minutes to get to the base of the wall.

Rock Candy is on Upper Shorter Wall, just to the left of Double Dogleg, a big left-leaning crack system on the right side of the wall and probably the most popular climb in the area.

Route Description

Upper Shorter is a very popular area despite the burly (by Jtree standards) approach but there are so many great climbs here that's worth the slog. Double Dogleg goes at 5.7 and Beck's Bet (to the right) at 5.8. Further up the wall (on the other side of a small gulley) are two easy 5.9s: Young Lust and Smithereens. The most challenging 5.9 in the area (and many people's favorite) is Rock Candy, just to the right of the easy-to-find Double Dogleg.

The direct start (via an underclung flake and a slick wall) is supposed to be 5.10c. Most people start to the left and traverse over to the crack, where there are two bolts. Most of the crack is thin fingers with some delicate moves. There are two bolts near the top, as well as bolted rap anchors. A nice mix of face and crack climbing.

Essential Gear

A standard rack, mostly smaller gear, and a single 60 rope.

Miscellaneous Info

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