March 2008. Cold, snowy, blowing. Dave Hutchison and I tried to get on Zeta but the wind simply blinded our eyes with tears. We came down and moved right, to a sheltered recess on the SouthWest Face. To the right of TUNNEL VISION was an unclimbed thin corner, just waiting for us !! As it turned out, it was quite fun and a Great Chance to "learn more about those #1 Beaks". What looked like a crack was only a seam. Dave would ask "How's it going?" I could only reply with the Joe Walsh & James Gang tune, "SEAMS TO ME".
Yup ! Up and over the Southwest Shoulder until You are at the base. Little corner, thin seam, just right of TUNNEL VISION. Nice place to set/sit for belay !! Somewhat wind sheltered.
First Ascent March 2008. 1st Pitch, Frank Sanders & Dave Hutchison. 2nd Pitch, Frank Sanders & Matt Zarif.
Pitch 1. A3+/A4- (150 ft.) The initial half a dozen pieces are quite good, then its All #1 Beaks (I recall 18 of them) with a couple tipped-in-way-tied-off Blades. Swing over left and use the 2-bolt Anchor on TUNNEL VISION to belay.
Pitch 2. A3+ (125 ft.) Swing back over right and take it up again with tied-off-tipped-in Blades and #1 Beaks, to the seam's end. Swing left to 5.9 or C1 aid, up to the huge ledge on the left. 2-Big Bolt Belay.
Pitch 3. 5.9?? and Dicey. Take the 3rd pitch of ZEPHYR to the summit. This means climbing directly above the huge ledge, towards the obvious ceiling, on the face (5.9). At the ceiling head right to the all-too-obvious loose, wide crack system (5.8?). Tighten Your laces and don't fall. My Heart has rarely beat so Hard. Jim Beyer, You are one heck of a MAN to do the 1st Ascent of this pitch SOLO !!!! We are ALL "Churning in his wake".
Standard Aid Rack, with 1.5 dozen(or so) #1 Beaks, some blades, etc for the first 2 pitches. Last pitch takes some Big Cams and some Big Balls.
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