Sergeant Rock, 5.4-5.11a

Overview/Approach

Sergeant Rock is one of the shorter destinations to reach in South Wonderland.  It offers one of the coolest vertical dike routes in the park, albeit just a solo for many climbers, 39 Steps, 5.4***.  School Daze, 5.10a*, is a worthwhile moderate to the left of the 39 Steps on the same southeast facing wall.  It is a mixed route with a solid slab crux finish.  Rockstar, 5.10dR, is around the corner on the southwest face.  It wanders and felt a bit contrived.  War Games, 5.10a* is a mixed route worth doing at the left end of the southwest face.  Obviously with southeast and southwest faces, this is a good stop first thing in the morning on a cold winter day.  Combined with Bankrupt Wall, Foolproof Tower and Surprise Rock, you could have a full long day out on decent moderates.  They all receive sun with the exception of Foolproof. 

Park at the Wonderland South trailhead complete with restrooms.  Hike west past the “pink” house and into the main wash trail.  Sergeant Rock will soon appear on your right.

Routes Listed Left to Right when Facing this South Facing Wall

War Games- 45'-5.10a*/ A mixed route wih one bolt.  Start on discontinus cracks at the west end of the southwest face.  This is the easist 5.10 on Sergeant.  Can rap Rockstar.  A few small to medium pieces, offsets helpful.  Dow

Rockstar- 55’-5.10dR/ Published as R, but more PG if even.  Stem the obvious groove on the left side of the arete below grade then transition to grainy steep slab through three clips that wander, both the bolts and the moves.  The slab portion is relatively sustained at the grade.  Fixed rap anchor on top.  Route receives sun all day.  A few pieces for the lower grove and three draws.  Dow

School Daze- 45’-5.10b*/ A decent, but short, route up a crack to the right of the arete.  The crux is when the crack ends on slab.  The last few meters on dirty slab to the shared fixed rap with Rockstar is the crux and stout for 5.10a as the guide has it published (MP.com has it at 5.10b).  The initial entry move off the deck is at the grade as well.  Few offset cams and small to medium pieces.  Route gets sun all day.  Dow 

Sargeant Pepper- 5.11a/

39 Steps- 35’-5.4***/ To the far right of the southeast facing wall.  Too short, but it is one of the more interesting easy routes in the park.  Climb a dinosaur’s back up a beautiful vertical dike.  Secure solo for the competent.  This route is guided on occasion.  Can rap School Daze.  Route receives morning sun until noon.  Dow