Super Heroes Wall, 5.6-5.11b

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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73.06% Score
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Super Heroes Wall, 5.6-5.11b
Created On: Apr 15, 2018
Last Edited On: Apr 15, 2018


Overview/Approach

Underdog, 5.10a*
Dow leading Underdog, 5.10a*

This is an outstanding collection of moderate routes with a minimal approach offering morning shade and afternoon sun.  If it is warm, the ideal crag to combine these routes with is Atlantis:  Super Heroes Wall in the morning, Atlantis in the afternoon.  Both are short walking distance from the same parking spot on Lost Horse Road. 

Mighty Mouse, 5.10b*, despite only receiving one star in Miramontes guide, is one of the better mixed 5.10-’s in the park.  It offers a variety of climbing style in one pitch and is sustained at the grade.  The final roof pull even allows for a heal hook if you are up to it.  Underdog, 5.10a*, starts at the same location and shares the same fixed anchor.  It is damn good in its own right, but is not sustained at its grade.   Elmer Fudd, 5.11b**, Captain Kangaroo, 5.9*,  Mr. Magoo, 5.10aR and Yosemite Sam, 5.4*, all share the same tower and fixed anchor that sits in front (middle) of the Super Heroes wall.  Silver Surfer, 5.9, gets no recommendation in the guide, but is as good as any single star and even some double star 5.9 trad routes offering great movement up a thin crack with delicate pro. It along with Super Chicken, 5.7*, and Baba Louie, 5.6, all share the same gear anchor.  Walk off climbers right.

Park at the end of public access (typically an open gate to ranger housing) on Lost Horse Road.  Hike west along the road for a short distance and circumvent the last feature on the right to the west.  The wall is west facing with Underdog and Mighty Mouse having a northern tilt to them.  The obvious roof at the north end is the roof pull on Mighty Mouse.

Route Descriptions, From Left to Right as you Face the West Facing Wall

Silver Surfer, 5.9
Dow leading Silver Surfer, 5.9

Mighty Mouse- 65’-5.10b*/ This is a sleeper at Jtree.  Miramontes guide only gives it one star, but I have climbed most all the other 5.10b’s in the park and Mighty Mouse ranks near the top of my favorites.  Mighty Mouse and Underdog start right next to each other but Mighty Mouse utilizes the bolt on the left that is just a few meters off the deck.  Traverse up and left to the second bolt making some fun and exposed face moves near the left side arete.  Traverse back right through good gear and a solid side pull below a bolt on the underside of a large roof.  There is a positive hold up and a meter left, then a heave ho roof pull with a dramatic left foot, actual heel hook plausible if you want to show off, and mantle above the roof.  Mighty and Underdog share the same fixed rap.  Dow

Underdog- 65’-5.10a*/ A fun route, but not near as sustained at the grade as Mighty Mouse.  Start up the corner and place small to micro gear (the bolt is for Mighty) and extend a micro off set before making a cool slab traverse right and continue through two bolts of fun corner/edge/arete climbing up to a positive horizontal traverse right.  Once the face ends, so does any climbing at the grade.  Continue up and left to an easy hand crack to the fixed rap ledge.  Dow

Elmer Fudd- 50’-5.11b**/

Captain Kangaroo- 50’-5.9*/ Runs up the center of the varnished tower in front of the wall.  This is listed as a top rope route in Miramontes guide and is the only top rope route I ever climbed in the park that I thought was worthy to be set up for lead.  Excellent movement and rock.  Climb through the first two bolts of Elmer Fudd and then traverse right on fun flakes and finish straight up to the hanging fixed rap atop.  There are intermittent cracks and this route would only need one or two bolts to make it a lead route.  Dow

Mr. Magoo- 50’-5.10aR/ Slab moves off the deck lead to a cool traverse right and then up a right curving crack that leads into Yosemite Sam at mid height.  Short, but worthy route in comparison to many half height routes that are contrived.  This one makes sense.  Dow

Yosemite Sam- 50’-5.4*/ Fun secure solo.  This wall and tower have great rock to this point, from here south on the wall the rock is more Jtree typical.  Climb the obvious broken crack system on the right side of the tower and rap from the hanging fixed rap which serves all the routes on this tower in front of the wall.  Dow

Silver Surfer- 60’-5.9/ This pitch deserves a recommendation (star) in Miramontes guide for sure.  Stem up the shallow system just right of the tower on the light colored wall.  Make a move right to the obvious tips/finger crack that arches up and right.  The crux is several layback moves on lead to access a flared hand.  Then up for a fun mantle move and easier ground.  I set up a rap with horizontal finger pieces which served all the routes on this right side wall.  Dow

Super Chicken- 60’-5.7*/ Climb up through three bolts with positive features aplenty (this route is a bit soft for the grade).  Place some horizontal gear and mantle the easy roof above to the same location of the before mentioned finger gear rap.  Dow

Baba Louie- 60’-5.6/ Fun secure solo.  Run up the easy flakes and over the main wall horizontal to the base of a twin dihedral.  Positive cracks and feet get you to the same ledge of the before mentioned gear rap or scramble off right.  Dow