Page Type:
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Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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44.11080°N / 73.90512°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
|
A long day |
|
Rock Difficulty:
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5.7 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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4 |
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Overview
This area lies on a western aspect in the north end of Panther Gorge below the shoulder of Little Haystack. This previously undocumented cliff lies between a left rising gully on the northern edge and right rising gully (really a basaltic dike) on the right. The gully and dike trend toward each other giving the wall a defined “V” shape.
All the rock is of excellent quality with the first pitch beginning from the basaltic dike on the right side. An aesthetic line up a left rising crack with excellent holds and edges leads to the western aspect face. Easy climbing follows up along cracks in bulges of pitted ‘moonrock’. The third pitch adds a technical slide into the mix before ending on a small cliff with a handcrack.
FA July 12, 2014, Adam Crofoot, Kevin "MudRat" MacKenzie
Getting There
See Panther Gorge.
Route Description
P1: 5.5-90’ Follow the first left rising handcrack from a basaltic dike at the base of a vertical wall on the right of the “V” Wall. Step around the corner onto the front of the wall and follow a left rising fracture through anorthositic bulges to a small belay
terrace at the bottom of a grass island.
P2: 5.4-180’ Continue 30 feet up and left up to a right rising crack. Follow the crack up bulges of heavily pitted anorthosite. Step left over a rounded corner before the crack ends. This places you in the center of the face below a crack that rises straight up the face into the trees. Bushwhack 30’ to the base of a slide and belay from cracks near its base.
P3: 5.7-165’ Face climb up the center of the slide with a crux move on a tier with horizontal finger cracks. Continue to top where it briefly vegetates. Finish the last section on the left up a fingercrack and low angle slab at the top. Exit to the left and climb a 10’ wall with nice cracks to belay at the top.
P4: 5.7: 70’ Bushwhack 40 feet up and left to the first face with a vertical crack crossed by two perpendicular cracks. Traverse to the crack from the righthand side. Belay from the top from a large tamarack.
Exit
Exit: Rappel down the route and to the base of the wall climbed in P2 (Note the “V” Wall requires 2 rappels). Either continue back to the north end or overnight in Panther Gorge Lean-to after bushwhacking south along Marcy Brook. Alternately, bushwhack up to the Range Trail northwest of Little Haystack following a heading of 60 degrees True. See primary image.
Additional Images
All Things Holy Overall RouteRelated
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