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4539 Hits
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76.47% Score
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8 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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34.02900°N / 116.199°W |
Activities:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Overview/Approach
One of the better moderate crack climbs in all of Joshua Tree is located on the far left side of White Cliffs of Dover, named Ace of Spades (5.9). White Cliffs of Dover is located high above a collection of objectives on the desert floor known as Hound Rocks. Hound Rocks are an easy hike from Trashcan Rock in the Quail Springs area of Jtree. Miramontes actually brags about two routes being of equal stature on White Cliffs of Dover, Popular Mechanics (5.10a) and Ace of Spades. However they share the same start (the crux first half of both routes) and Ace of Spades is by far the better climb. Ace of Spades splits off left up the adjoining wall via a beautiful twin splitter hand crack, whereas Popular Mechanics continues up the corner seam.
White Cliffs of Dover covers a broad area of mutilated cliffs that face north for the most part, with some morning sun hitting the east end, more in the spring and fall than during the winter. That being said, I climbed Ace of Spades and Popular Mechanics comfortably on February 1. A good combination is to warm up on several good, but short, crack climbs on the Hound Rock faces before making the hike up to the base of White Cliffs. During warmer temps, it would make more sense to head straight for White Cliffs and spend some quality time along the wall.
Park at Trashcan Rock. Locate a marked trail at the east end of the parking area (near the entrance). Follow this trail south for Hound Rock(s). Locate a lessor trail from the east side of Hound Rocks that heads southeast for the upper left side of the White Cliffs of Dover. There will be a short series of switchbacks that lead right to the base of Ace of Spades, Popular Mechanics, Card Chimney, Good Housekeeping and Scientific Americans. Your approach would vary greatly for routes on the right side (west).
Make or Break Flake- 80’-5.10b*/ The obvious wide crack at the left end of the wall. An excellent climb. The crux is off the deck in a flared overhanging corner with good gear. Once you pull this overhang it goes wide but easy. Can place #4’s judicially, #5’s easily. The wide is well below grade. Then clip a bolt on the upper wall and traverse up and right, 5.10a move. Gear belay. Scramble down the gully to climbers right. Single to #4. Dow
Quest for Fire- 5.11b**/
Solar Flare- 5.9/
Nolina Crack- 5.10a/
Digital Watch- 5.11aR**/
Sen Blen- 5.10c/
Jack of Hearts- 100’-5.9*/ Another underappreciated climb at the White Cliffs of Dover. Excellent hand crack to the left of Popular and Ace and as good a climb but typically ignored. Latest local guide had length and rap way off. There is no slung block anymore, you just climb up to the shared anchor with Ace of Spades. The guide also says it climbs the left side of the pillar, but you climb up the right side of the obvious frontal pillar. Complete the hand crack to a wide, but easy, upper crack. Single or double to #4. Dow
Scientific Americans- 100-5.8R*/ Sparsely bolted secure features up the right arete forming Card Chimney. A bit of an ordinary route. Dow
Card Chimney- 80’-5.5/ Secure fun solo that should be recommended in the local guide as a classic at the grade. Chimney up behind chockstones to the top of a pillar that is set back from the front one. Great rock. Dow
Conqueror Worm- 5.11b*/
Popular Mechanics- 5.10a***/ Good route, but not near as special as Ace of Spades. The right corner (Mechanics) just continues with more of the same versus the nice and steep hand sized crack (Ace) on the left wall. For some reason Miramontes has this as a 5.10a, but it is easier than Ace of Spades. Decent approach gets you away from the crowds. Both are worth doing. Both share the same start which is really the crux (finger corner). Fixed rap is at top of route. Both routes get little to no sun in January. Dow
Ace of Spades- 5.9***/ Great Jtree route, ranks near the top for its grade. Decent approach gets you away from the crowds. This 5.9 is a better and more heads up route than Popular Mechanics which Miramontes has a grade harder for some reason. Both share the same start which is really the crux. Ace splits off into beautiful steep twin cracks on the left wall. Fixed rap is over to the left towards the chimney out of sight. Dow
Good Housekeeping- 5.11a**/
Wilted Flower Children- 5.9/
High Anxiety- 5.10d*/
High Tension- 5.11d*/
Search for Chinese Morsels- 100’-5.10b*/ Way taller than the local guide suggests. Go to the top of the wall and walk off right. The climbing is at the grade through three bolts (old) via cool reachy edges and arete movement up into the flakes and features above which climb below the grade. Gear belay on top. Single to #3. Dow
Wokking (sic) the Dog- 5.11c/
Wanton Soup- 5.10a/
Misfortune Cookies- 40’-5.8/ This climb would be highly recommended in the local guides if closer to the road. A very cool climb but set out by itself in the middle of the cliff. Climb the twin cracks visible up in the gully to the right of Chinese Morsels. The left crack is part of a flake, the right crack is a left facing corner. Single to #2. Dow
Shibumi- 5.10d*/
Dover Sole- 50’-5.6/ Secure solo. An excellent corner crack climb at the grade. Left facing corner with a perfect hand crack in the left wall. Pull an easy roof. Rap tree down climbers right or down climb through a narrow hole further down. Dow
Red Snapper- 5.11a*/
Red Tide- 40’-5.10b*/ Short west face at the end of the cliff band to the right end. Fully bolted (4) to a fixed rap. Intricate movement. Access via the first bolt to the right end and then traverse back left ending up with a high step on the arete to gain steep edges. Traverse back right around a bulge (crux) and up a corner/small roof. A lot going on in 40’. Worth doing. Dow
Soviet Union- 5.11c**/