OverviewThe Black Crack is located at Cathedral Ledge in North Conway, New Hampshire. The following was taken from "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire" (2nd edition) by Ed Webster. It is the essential rock climbers guide to the White Mountains and was very well done. "The closest version of a Yosemite -style off width on the east coast" Very true. Having climbed off widths there it was very reminiscent of such. The first ascent was by Mike Stultz, George Eypper and Joe Cote in July 1970.
Route DescriptionThis route is seldom climbed and is rated R for the protection. It is a sustained 5.10+ (probably 5.10C). There is very little along the lines for a comfortable rest. You could hang from either the bolt or fixed peg if you must rest. The climb is extremely pumpy and very awkward. The foot placements are essential. foot stacking was used and opposed pressure.
The crack is offwidth in nature. It was really awkward in places and getting your knee stuck may happen quite easily. Friends were used as the primary trad pro. Also there is a very thin crack just to the right of the main offwidth that offers placement for #3-#5 stoppers. getting these pieces of pro in was challenging because it was difficult to reach out to this crack and stay on. The route is luckily only one pitch of about a hundred and fifty feet. Expect to come out with some scrapes on the inside and outside of your knees. Also the crack is subject to drainage and may be dirty. It does not dry quickly.