Mordor Wall

Mordor Wall

Mordor Wall is one of the classic hard aid routes in New England. Climbing similar to a Yosemite Big Wall can be found here, as a variety of aid techniques must be utilized to successfully climb this route.

The first pitch was climbed in 1967 by Joe Cote and John Merrill, who did not intend to climb any higher. In 1970 Joe Cote returned with Steve Arsenault and the pair climbed up to the sidewalk on pitch 3. Later that summer Steve Arsenault and Scott Brimm rappelled down and climbed the roof on pitch 4. In 1979 Ed Webster climbed the entire route from the ground, including freeing the roof pitch. The credit for the first free ascent goes to Jim Surrette who, in 1985, freed the entire route, save the last move on pitch 1.

Getting There

Mordor Wall is located in Echo Lake-Cathedral Ledge State Park near North Conway, New Hampshire. To get to the wall walk along the road past the state park kiosk to an obvious trail on the left. Take the trail for about 100' and you'll be at the wall. This is the same trail you would take for Thin Air.

Route Description

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Essential Gear

Hard aid gear including bat hooks for the infamous "Terror Traverse" on pitch 2. A large assortment of small cams and nuts, although larger cams up through #4 Camalot can be used. In the spring and summer bug spray is essential as it is not advised to swat at mosquitoes while hooking. Belay seat, knee pads, etc are also advised although not necessary.

External Links

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Images

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