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Still in Saigon and Miss Saigon
Route

Still in Saigon and Miss Saigon

 

Page Type: Route

Location: New Hampshire, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.06000°N / 71.17°W

Object Title: Still in Saigon and Miss Saigon

Route Type: technical rock climb

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.8

Number of Pitches: 2

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: AlexeyD

Created/Edited: Mar 3, 2003 / Jun 19, 2012

Object ID: 157788

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Approach

See Thin Air approach. The start of Still in Saigon is approximately 50 meters left and uphill from Thin Air, at a large tree whose trunk is curved at the base.


Route Description

Pitch 1 (Still in Saigon): Climb a series of blocky steps to a bolt, then make a delicate 5.8 friction move up a steep slab and mantle onto a ledge with a piton. Continue up the line of least resistance past more bolts and pitons to another mantle (5.8), also protected by a bolt. Some descriptions call this second mantle the crux, but I did not find it any more difficult than the move after the very first bolt. After this second mantle, follow a flake up and left (natural gear possible here)until it's possible to move right on a series of steps to a bolted anchor on a ledge. 5.8, 130'

Pitch 2 (Miss Saigon): From the bolted anchor, climb more or less straight up another blocky face (watch for pitons hidden in horizontal cracks) to a short 5.7 or so slab/face problem with a piton after it. After this, climb a tricky bulge (5.8, natural gear available in a horizontal crack which will be at your feet as you pull the crux) and then clip a final bolt on the left before topping out on another ledge and bolted anchor. 5.8, 70'

Essential Gear

A small rack of cams to 2" and/or small to medium nuts (I did not place any, but saw some opportunities to), otherwise about 6 draws for bolts especially on the first pitch, and many slings for the numerous pitons on both pitches. Caution: do not clip those old pitons pounded into horizontal cracks with a biner, this would likely cause them to break in the event a fall; girth hitch them with a sling instead.

Descent

Two 60-meter ropes will get you to the ground in one rappel. Otherwise, two single-rope rappels with either a 60 or 70-meter rope will get you down; if using a 60, watch the ends of the rope on the second rappel (from the anchors on top of pitch 1) and try to swing to climber's left a little, as the ground is higher there - it's a close one!