Approach
Park at the turn in the approach road; take the trail going straight up (i think it may say "funhouse and pooh". The route actually begins in an alcove which you have to reach after a short grade 4 scramble. It is identified by two inside corners, the lefthand of which is your route.
Route Description
Pitch 1:
climb along the slab for about 30 feet into the left inside corner. Layback and stem up the crack/corner system (pin) for another 20-30 feet or so (5.7) and exit onto a ledge. Follow another crack, the over a slab, to another ledge with a tree (fixed slings). Belay here or, with a 60 meter rope, continue up easy 5.4-type rock to a big, wide ledge and belay there, also at a tree (this might make the route 2 pitches instead of three, but i haven't tried it yet).
Pitch 2: from the big ledge, continue up the crack system, beginning with a 5.7 crux. Follow it to an overhang, step left and exit onto a ledge with trees. Belay on one of the trees.
Pitch 3: scramble along grade-4 type rock to the main ledge splitting Cathedral. From here routes on the Upper Left Wall can be accessed.
Essential Gear
a normal rack with emphasis on medium-sized cams, though a couple of big ones won't hurt either. A few long slings are a good idea.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Additions and Corrections
[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
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| splewis | P.1 correction | |
Hasn't voted | The scramble to the bottom of the first pitch begins about 50 feet uphill and right of a prominent right-trending arch (Three Birches, 5.8). The scramble puts you right at the base of the P.1 corner (there is no "slab"). And the entire initial corner is less than 25 feet high. | |
| Posted Aug 22, 2010 7:26 pm | ||
| AlexeyD | re: P.1 correction | |
Hasn't voted | However, the first corner starts off-angle, and then becomes vertical (at that point there are two fixed pins, or at least there were last fall, which is the last time I was on it). Thus, the very first part of the first pitch can be climbed either by getting directly into the corner, or by following the slab (or side of the corner, whichever you prefer) on the right. | |
| Posted Sep 13, 2010 6:15 pm | ||
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