The simplest approach is from the North End. From the toprope area, follow a faint path left along the base of the cliff for several hundred feet, until there's an option of either descending slightly, or continuing at the same height on a ledge. At this point you will see a big right-facing corner-chimney system; this is the start of the route. For the best belay spot, I recommend scrambling several meters up to another ledge.
Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner system up to a big ledge, with a bong piton in a crack (should be backed up). A somewhat awkward, often wet and generally unappealing pitch. Think of it as the price you pay for an otherwise first-class climb. 5.7, 70 feet.
Pitch 2: Up another right-facing corner system, then mantle out onto a ledge (awkward!), stand up and clip a fixed pin. Now move right and slightly down, traversing under the overhang past another pin, to another ledge. (let me know if you can do this without grabbing the draw on that pin on your first try!) 5.10a, 50 feet.
Pitch 3: Look up at the huge dihedral straight above you, take a deep breath, and climb it. The most strenous, sustained bit of 5.8 climbing I've ever done. The birch tree growing in the dihedral is a welcome relief! Once past the tree, continue up the corner for another 10-15 feet then exit right and belay on the ledge at another tree. 5.8, 120 feet.
Pitch 4: Walk right along the giant flake up to a huge ledge. 4th class, 80 feet.
Pitch 5: The belay ledge is split in two by a huge chimney. From near this chimney, climb up the prominent corner/chimney/crack system. The first half looks very overhanging, but it's not as bad as it looks. Hint: once you reach the overhanging section, get pro as high in the crack as you can, then look for features to your left, on the arete. Once past the overhang, continue along the crack system on easier ground, then pull the final short roof and exit out into the trees above. A suberb pitch - worth doing just by itself! 5.9, 120 feet.
Standard rack with a good selection of sizes including to 3 inches. Lots of .75s, 1s and 1.5s for the 5.8 dihedral. Extended slings very useful.
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