Miramonte has Breakfast of Champions labeled as 5.8 in his index but has the 2nd pitch labeled as 5.9 in the text of his guide. In any regard, the 1st pitch is a soft 5.8 and the 2nd pitch is definitely the crux of the route (“features that barely connect to the top”), climbing delicate slab through three bolts. Breakfast of Champions is not near as interesting as My Laundry (same grade, same wall) but gets more fanfare (both located on the iconic north face of the South Astrodome). Perhaps Miramonte’s inclusion of Breakfast of Champions in his “Top 12 Trad Moderates” is the reason why. Or that My Laundry has some bird shit on it. In any case, I was more impressed with My Laundry. Breakfast was established in 1977.
The Astrodomes offer one of the better hikes and remote climbing options in Joshua Tree . South and North Astrodome are two of the taller features in the park. This area is named Wonderland South. One of my favorite areas to climb in all of Joshua Tree is Bighorn Mating Grotto and the Astrodomes are located along the way.
Route DescriptionBreakfast of Champions, 200+/-, 5.9
1st Pitch- 90’- 5.8/ Locate the obvious left facing corner at the far right hand side of the north face of South Astrodome. It starts out wide but easy to a ledge. Then continues on as an easy hand crack for the grade to a right traverse up jugs to a small stance at a fixed belay.
2nd Pitch- 80’- 5.9/ This pitch is definitely more technical at the grade than the first, but fully bolted (3). Head up and right on jugs to the first bolt. From there climb some intricate slab moves for the grade as you work through the final two bolts to the top with a fixed rap anchor. There is a traverse left move well below the final bolt that is easier than going straight up. It is easy to walk to the summit before returning for the rap.