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No Calculators Allowed, 10a
Route

No Calculators Allowed, 10a

 
No Calculators Allowed, 10a

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.01386°N / 116.17312°W

Object Title: No Calculators Allowed, 10a

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: 10a

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Marcsoltan

Created/Edited: Jan 19, 2011 / May 6, 2011

Object ID: 693159

Hits: 1080 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview

 
Route topo
 
 
Climber on No Calculators Allowed
 
 
No Calculators Allowed, 10a
Yours Truly

No Calculators Allowed is the name of a route located on the east face of Thin Wall in the Real Hidden Valley in Joshua Tree National Park, California.


There are a dozen different formations within the Real Hidden Valley with several dozen routes. I can argue that No Calculators Allowed is the most popular of all the routes in this area. I can think of several reasons for this popularity, but the ease in which you can set up a top rope has got to be on top of the list. Another reason is the way this route tests your ability to see if you are on your way to becoming a 10a crack climber.



No Calculators Allowed is a crack system located in the middle of Thin Wall. Most of the route goes as solid 5.8 with plenty of holds on the face, as well as plenty of solid jams. Just when you think it's over, about ten feet from the top, the rock becomes nearly overhanging. If your arms are already burned out by getting to this point, you have little chance of cruising to the top. If you, however, go through the crux without any trouble, you may have a chance to become a 10a leader. In either case, you will agree that this is one of the most fun routes in Joshua Tree.


Note: Please don't hog the route all to yourself. Be friendly to other climbers hoping to get on this route, even if they arrive after you.


Essential Equipment:
One 60 meter rope, standard rack, pro to 2.5 inches, slings, a good and watchful belayer.

Getting There

 
Joshua Tree cactus
 

From the western entrance to Joshua Tree National Park drive on Park Boulevard, formerly known as Quail Springs Road, for about nine miles to a major rock formation called “Intersection Rock.” Intersection Rock is a major landmark on the north side of Quail Springs Road with ample parking for visitors and climbers alike. This rock, true to its name, sit at the cross roads to “Hidden Valley Campground”, Barker Dam Road and the road to “Day use and picnic” area.
Turn right onto the road leading to day use area with a large parking lot and bathrooms. The Trail to “Real Hidden Vally” is obvious and starts here. This trail leads to “Nature Loop Trail” and “Real Hidden Valley.”
When you get to the Loop Trail take the left fork. After a few minutes you will come to the largest formation in the area. That is Sentinel to your left and it’s mostly east facing. Thin Wall is a short walk further past Sentinel Rock.

Camping, Environmental concerns, Noise considerations

 
Joshua Tree landscape
Typical Joshua Tree landscape

 
Protecting native plants
protecting native plants

Please tread lightly. The Access Fund has gone to great lengths posting trail marker for approaches to many of the more popular crags. Do your best to stay on these trails, and where you are forced to use a different path, choose the ones that rain can mend in time. Drainages make for good trails where there are no established trails.
Avoid stepping on native and fragile plants, and do not feed the coyotes. Coyotes are very much used to people and often hang around picnic areas and camp grounds in hopes of getting a hand out. It’s better to let them live their natural life.

Camping

 
Joshua Tree sunset
 
There are nine campgrounds in Joshua Tree National Park. At the entrance to the park you are always asked if you would care to have a map and a brochure. The brochure will have plenty of information on the campgrounds and the map will guide you to many of the pleasant hikes throughout the park. You may even get the latest information as to availability of campsites. During the peak season (mid winter through spring) finding a campsite may become a major task. It is highly recommended to use the following link to get more information in advance.

Joshua Tree Camping



Noise considerations



When you are camping with friends and sitting around the fire, it is easy to forget that there are other people trying to sleep in the nearby campsites. It is important to put yourself in their shoes. Keep the noise and music to a minimum and certainly not too much past 10 p.m. Your neighbors will smile at you in the morning instead of giving you dirty looks.



Images

No Calculators Allowed, 10aAt the cruxEast Face of Thin WallCactusClimber on No Calculators AllowedRoute topoEast Face of Thin Wall
Topo of the route