OverviewThe Breithorn (4165 meters, 13,665 feet) comprises a long ridge line which makes up the western end of the still more massive frontier crest stretching from Monte Rosa, over the multiple summits of the Liskamm Group, and past the twin peaks of Castor and Pollux.
If it were not for the Klein Matterhorn cable car, which whisks climbers and skiers up to over 12,700 feet, The Breithorn would be a long climb by any route. But the lift has turned the SSW Flank route on the Breithorn into one of the most climbed 4000 meter peaks of the Alps. This is a snow and glacier route. The primary challenges are those normally associated with high altitude climbing, that is fitness, pace, and basic crampon technique. In poor weather, or when avalanche hazard exists on this side of the peak, the climb takes on another character, and lives have been lost in these conditions. Most of the time, however, this peak offers an enjoyable outing with incredible views and a rewarding summit.
Getting ThereITALIAN SIDE: CERVINIA
Breuil-Cervinia Valtournenche is situated in the Aosta Valley, in the north-west of Italy.
Easy to reach, it is served by the motorway A5 Turin-Aosta. Exit at the Chatillon - St Vincent turn off and continue along the regional road towards Cervinia for 27 km. Valtournenche is 7 km before Breuil-Cervinia and 21 km from Chatillon.
Transfers are also easy thanks to the proximity of the national airports of Turin Caselle (118 km), Milan Malpensa
(160 km), Milan Linate (180 km) and the international airports of Frankfurt, Paris, Zurich and Geneva.
SWISS SIDE: ZERMATT
Located in southern Switzerland at an altitude of 1,600 metresand just a few hours from the international airport of Zurich, Generva and Milano. Zermatt easily accessible from western, northern or southern Europe.
International rail connections link up to Brig with the modern narrow-gauge Zermatt railway, which takes only 90 minutes to climb through the Visp Valley.
Motorists can drive as far as Täsch, from where trains (shuttle trains run every 20 minutes) and minibus taxi operate a shuttle service for the remaining 4.8 km/3 miles to Zermatt. Low cost parking are available in Täsch, as well as in Visp.
The Breithorn summitsThe Breithorn has five summits. All summits are in the list of the UIAA.:
- The highest is the western summit with 4165m.
- The middle summit with 4159m.
- The eastern Breithorn-twin with 4106m.
- The western Breithorn-twin with 4139m.
- The Roccia Nera (Schwarzfluh) with 4075m.
The normal route, the SSW Flank, is an easy climb on 35 degree snow or ice. It is accessible by cable car, and therefore makes an enjoyable day climb for training and acclimatization. It also affords incredible views.
The north face of this mountain - 1700 m high - is by contrast rather impressing and the ascent is rated AD like Matterhorn.
BREITHORN CENTRAL AND EAST
The Half Traverse of the Breithorn Crest is almost 3 kilometers in length. The climber normally gain the crest at about the halfway point at col 4022m. From here you have to ascend over the 3 main rocky steps, very exposed but never extreme. The traverse ends with an easy corniced ridge to to highest summit at the west end.
ROCCIA NERA (Schwarzfluh)
You can climb this summit from Rossi e Volante Bivouac
First ClimbingsWest Breithorn: 13 August 1813, by H. Mainard, J.M.Coutet, J.Gras, J.B. and J.J. Erin
Central Breithorn: 19 July 1900 by E. Hahn
East Breithorn: 16 August 1884 by J.Stafford Anderson
Refuge Guide del Cervino
Refuge Guide Val d'Ayas
Mountain ConditionsMeteo Cervinia
Webcam Breithorn-Matterhorn area
- no. 1348 - Zermatt
- no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
- no. 284 Mischabel
- no. 294 Gressoney
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