Consolation Imp

Overview

"Consolation Imp" is an easy and aesthetic Class 2/3 scramble from Baldy Lake, the consolation prize if you don't bring trad gear for the rarely climbed nearby South Imp, or the challenging scramble on the North Imp. This high point (9,000 ft+)  is located just SW of the Twin Imps in the Seven Devils, on the summit ridge between the Baldy Lake basin on the W and the Dog Lake basin on the E. In July 2022 there was a summit register with a solo entry from 2021, the name "Consolation Imp" is from an earlier register who also recommended this peak be called "Grump's Hump." The views of the nearby but yet so remote Twin Imps, Dog Lake, Hell's Canyon, and the amazing Seven Devils range are a just reward.

Getting There

See the Seven Devils parent page, the primary access is the Windy Saddle / Seven Devils TH. Here's the approach to the Twin Imps area for this imp:The loop trail leaves the Seven Devils Trailhead (7,600 ft) and initially proceeds north away from the Imps. You'd want to go this way only if you had a lot of time to burn as an "imp in the summer" (pun intended). The trail drops in and out of several basins and in about 9 miles reaches Baldy Lake (7,200 ft) in the basin west of Devils Throne. From this lake the Imps are within striking distance. 

Route

W ridge: The obvious summit route up the west ridge of the Consolation Imp (approx. 1.6 miles from lake to summit, about 1800 vertical feet) is from Baldy Lake, to the NW of the Imps peaks. Start at Baldy Lake (7200') where the main trail reaches the lake, travel right (south) around the south side of the lake following a fisherman's trail which quickly peters out. Bushwhack and start ascending south into the large basin south of Baldy Lake, to the east of the Potato Hill. The approach route will mainly be on large boulder fields as you ascend into the basin, from 7900' to the west ridge at 8400', with widely spaced trees, some talus and scree up to the ridge, and optional fairly flat ridgeline snow fields (no axe/spikes required). The main summit ridge has some fun class 2/3 scrambling, with optional class 3+ to 4 moves on more stable exposed rock. There is a faint climber's path at times, only a few small cairns, and is easier if you hike up the right (south) aspect at times. There is a lower "false" summit where the west ridge meets the north/south spine of the Seven Devils, and the true summit is about 50-feet to the east overlooking a sheer drop to the Dog Lake basin to the E. If moving efficiently, plan on 3 hours round trip from the lake.

Red Tape

No red tape (no permits required).

When to Climb

Summer, as access to the Seven Devils is challenging as the TH is at high elevation and the road has to melt out. If approaching Baldy Lake on the Loop Trail from the south, there could be a few steep cornices/snowfields that linger deeper into summer on the main loop trail, just west of Pyramid Mountain, that may require ice axe/spikes. Also note early season approaches there will likely be a TON of blowdown on the loop trail due to the large wildfire that swept the area years ago, until volunteer crews can clear it out each year.

Camping

Baldy Lake has only a few large campsites, on the west side of the lake where the approach trail meets the lake, and they are located in the trees above the lake. There are better overnight spots at Echo Lake, in the basin north of Baldy Lake, but this will add hours to the peak approach climb.

External Links

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