This climb is located on the W face of Trashcan Rock, the large formation at the Quail Springs picnic area. To get to the Quail Springs picnic area:
a) From the western entrance to Joshua Tree National Park: drive 2.6 (?) miles (a sign marking the turn is obvious). Take a R.
b) from the turnout to the Hidden Valley campground: go 3 miles towards Joshua Tree (the town). Take a L.
Go past the first set of parking spots around the curve to those by the outhouse. Park here. This is the W face of Trashcan Rock.
Walk to the R-hand side of the W face of Trashcan Rock. This climb is an enjoyable double crack system in a sort of recess between two large blobular projections in Trashcan Rock. Climb up to a shelf from the ground, then onto a smaller ledge (onto which you could deck if falling in a bad way from the cracks) which lies at the base of the crack system. Take the double cracks to the top.
A bomber anchor exists at the top of the climb in the form of a room-sized boulder sitting atop Trashcan Rock. Tie some long slings around the points of contact between it & Trashcan Rock.
Walk off the formation via the easiest route possible, trending towards the other end of Trashcan Rock (i.e. the end across from the outhouse). This entails some 4th class downclimbing.
1 50 meter rope; loooong slings for the anchor; pro' to 2": cams work great, but some good hex & nut placements possible too- just bring some longer runners if using these so they don't come out en route.
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